Tastes

Canadian whisky can be a bit of a minefield, as I have yet to come across a bottle I really like. This 8-year-old Schenley O.F.C. came to me as a leftover from an estate sale, so let's give it a try. Corn sweetness, vanillin and cinnamon are prominent on the nose, interrupted by chamomile, mango and an occasional bite. Feisty and untamed in the arrival, the development is marked by peppery spices, brown sugar and herbal notes. Crème brûlée, grapefruit and mild tannins creep into the surprisingly long finish. Granted, this is definitely better than Canadian Club. RATING: 3.2/5.0 stars ≙ 81 pts → AVERAGE [+]

Probably intended to seduce Chinese businessmen, 'Ti Girl' is an intriguing combination of Macallan, Highland Park, Glenrothes and Glenturret. Blended at birth and matured for 17 years in a sherry butt, the complex nose unfolds with orange peel, thyme and wood spices. Lime juice, cane sugar and raspberries appear. The palate is sweet and aromatic, emphasizing notes of dates, jelly babies and dark chocolate. Faint hints of peat whisper in the far distance. Emerging mint, cloves and Brazil nuts linger in the dry and spicy finish. Look Edrington, this is whisky! RATING: 4.2/5.0 stars ≙ 89 pts → FIRST-CLASS [+]

One could argue that a few drops of Port Ellen in this blended malt can't make much of a difference, but it's a nice gimmick. Typical Islay peat smoke, coal tar and TCP dominate the nose, followed by fennel, baked banana and underlying Caol Ila sweetness. It's very raw, young and spirit-driven. On the palate, a phenolic blast of 'Big Peat' overwhelms the senses, very dry and edgy, subduing notes of honey, pears and subtle oak. Pineapple, menthol and a touch of briny seaweed subside in the long and peaty sweet finish. So where is the Port Ellen? I'm joking. RATING: 3.5/5.0 stars ≙ 84 pts → ABOVE AVERAGE

The Beast of Dufftown in its new cloak - boy, that rebranding was so desperately needed. To hell with Mortlach's ultra-premium deluxe image! On the nose, blood oranges, cloves and heather jump at you. Raspberries, sage and honey follow shortly after, and there is an earthy note creeping in. Full-bodied and intense, the palate guides you through the flavor wheel: fruity, bitter and sour, then slightly dry, sweet and savory. Tangerine, peppermint and a touch of stout escort the long and cask-dominated finish. A great comeback of a characterful Speysider. RATING: 4.0/5.0 stars ≙ 88 pts → FIRST-CLASS

Morrison & MacKay's Càrn Mòr range has become a reliable source of young quality malts which do not break the bank. Distilled in 2008 and matured in a bourbon barrel, this 9-year-old Tobermory features a fresh and vivid nose. Tinned pears, pineapple and cut flowers intermingle with pastries, cinnamon and hints of salt. Sour and gingery in the arrival, the development accentuates currants, grapefruit and distant honey sweetness with a touch of dry oak. Lemon zest, nutmeg and bitter green tea linger in the moderate finish. A nice spirit-driven whisky! RATING: 3.5/5.0 stars ≙ 83 pts → ABOVE AVERAGE

Often overlooked, dismissed and underrated, Lowland whiskies are consigned to the shadows. With its massive square bottle, Bladnoch 10 is almost shouting out: 'Look, I'm back!' The nose opens up nicely, combining grainy and floral notes with sour cream, blackberries and fresh citrus. On the palate, the aromatic and semidry arrival gives way to sweet vanilla cream, bitter lemon and grassy hints of coconut. Mild tannins, grapefruit and a touch of roasted bread mark the medium-length finish. A fine summer dram which is far from being a lightweight! RATING: 3.7/5.0 stars ≙ 85 pts → ABOVE AVERAGE [+]

Arguably the most famous expression of the Flora & Fauna range, Rosebank 12 has become a rare find. Fresh, delicate and complex, the aroma enchants with yellow fruits, blossom honey and subtle hints of chamomile. Red currants, kiwi and corn flakes emerge. Creamy, floral and slightly astringent at first, the taste is shifting towards barley sugar, honeydew melon and sour tangerines. Mint leaves, wood spices and a touch of white wine accompany the crisp and elegant finish. Time will tell if the 'new' Rosebank can live up to the quality of this iconic malt. RATING: 4.0/5.0 stars ≙ 88 pts → FIRST-CLASS

Believe it or not, Campbeltown has more to offer than Springbank. Glen Scotia has always been a bit under the radar, but it has a lot to offer as a distillery! The 15-year-old expression has an intriguing nose, featuring salted caramel, pastries and apricots. Porridge, honey and floral scent add to the complexity. Spicy, aromatic and increasingly cask-dominated, the palate is balanced out by subtle sweetness, bitter walnuts and a touch of arugula. Lemon balm, nutmeg and salt linger in the resinous finish. Almost like Clynelish 14, a singular malt with character. RATING: 3.9/5.0 stars ≙ 86 pts → FIRST-CLASS [-]

Whisky maturation takes time. Smaller casks and warmer climate can accelerate the process to some extent, but there are obviously limitations. The nose of this Kavalan Solist reveals quality sherry wood, and yet it remains rather hot and feisty. Water tames it a bit, accentuating prunes, balsamic vinegar and After Eights. On the palate… well, this is too extreme. Oaky and spirity at the same time, a crescendo of bitter oranges, soda and strong herbal notes culminates in a medium-length, 90% dark chocolate finish. This is way too disharmonious for a soloist. RATING: 3.4/5.0 stars ≙ 82 pts → ABOVE AVERAGE [-]

What is a special occasion? A round birthday? Wedding day? Being alive after 4 weeks with COVID-19 definitely ticks all the boxes, so let's pop the cork of Springbank 25! Matured in a combination of sherry and rum casks, the nose features tropical fruits, sugar cane molasses and fresh herbs, sage and thyme in particular. Complex wood spices, dark chocolate and quality rum notes dominate the palate, followed by pineapple, orange zest and whiffs of smoke. The finish is long and herbal with a salty edge. A great dram for sure, but not as great as I thought. RATING: 4.4/5.0 stars ≙ 90 pts → SUPERB [-]