Slainte-Mhath
Highland Park 12 Year
Single Malt — Islands, Scotland
Reviewed
December 29, 2020 (edited July 4, 2022)
Once upon a time, there was a distillery on Orkney you could rely on. Then the Vikings invaded, and things went south. For nostalgia's sake, let's review the old HP12. Fragrant and well-balanced, the nose features orange peel, nutmeg and toffee, complemented by cranberries, parsley and delicate bonfire smoke. Sweet and malty in the arrival, the palate turns dry, peppery and mildly phenolic shortly after. Tangerines, bitter honey and hints of espresso round off the medium-length finish. Where are the good old times? Sigh. If it ain't broken, don't fix it!
RATING: 3.5/5.0 stars ≙ 84 pts → ABOVE AVERAGE
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@Slainte-Mhath a gin review? From Slainte-Mhath? 2021 may be full of surprises.
@BDanner Roku is a very decent gin indeed, I poured my first dram today. Who knows, maybe I will even write a review?
@Slainte-Mhath I liked Roku very much.
@Slainte-Mhath A good choice either way - both fine products at sensible prices.
@cascode I spotted HP10 'Viking Scars' in our local Vinmonopolet today, but ended up buying a Japanese gin (Roku) instead... 👹
@WhiskeyLonghorn Yes, I think you are right about the sherry-seasoned casks, it certainly is a factor. The Viking theme works for the mass-market, most occasional whisky drinkers will be attracted by the fancy bottle and not notice the flaws in the whisky itself.
@Slainte-Mhath It's a session whisky, and a good one. By no means the best thing they do but worth the inexpensive ticket.
@Slainte-Mhath my experience comparing both is similar to yours with the 18. The nose on the new Viking 12 has some of that sweet & sour quality I get with lower quality “sherry seasoned” casks, and the mouthfeel is thinner than the original 12. My guess is that not only did they change the marketing and bottles, but they also ramped up production and distribution, which almost always leads to a drop in quality. I’ve seen it happen for fifteen years with craft brewers here in the states. When they get bought up and scale production, some of the original magic always gets lost in scaling.
@cascode I might give Highland Park 10 a try, it's rather cheap... that's probably why it hasn't caught my attention, usually I avoid the cheapest expression of the range.
@PBMichiganWolverine I compared the old and new HP18 side by side, including the higher ABV travel retail bottling. The old HP18 got very respectable 89 points, or 4.2 stars, when I reviewed it about a year ago. The Viking Pride was a tad weaker, but not a complete desaster. However, I am convinced that Highland Park did not only upgrade the bottle design, the spirit inside changed as well - and not for the better!
@WhiskeyLonghorn Have you compared the old and new HP12 side by side?
@cascode now I'm jealous! We don't get the 10 here in the States...
The core rane is still pretty much as I remember it, at least that was so about a year ago. Agree, the 12 year is a solid 3.5, the 18 very good (but not as good as the official Distiller rating). My choice opf the lot right now, as it has been for a while, is the 10 year old. Very well priced, smokier than the 12 but with mostly the same profile. it's currently around AUD$70, which is a bargain for an everyday quaffer. As for marketing, well Edrington owns them, and they own Macallan. 'Nuff said 😉
@Slainte-Mhath have you had the 18? Wondering if that is close to the old 18
I agree with your notes on the rebranding and the drop in quality. I’ll occasionally pick up the new Viking 12 only because it’s easily quaffable, and there’s a place near me that sells it for about $40 USD, which is less than some of the bourbons I buy, so at least near me this remains a good value for a decent drop, but like yourself, I also miss the old version.
I am concluding my series of reviews for 2020, hopefully 2021 will be a better year for all of us! It's time for my Whisky of the Year 2020 shortly, and I will continue with a complete comparision of the Caol Ila core range (12, DE, 18 & 25) in January.
Additional comment: Decent quality, distinct bottle shape and a color-coded core range, Highland Park had it all. Let the marketing people 'improve' your product, and they will wreck it. It's sad to say, but I am done with Highland Park, with the exception of an occasional independent bottling crossing my way.