DrRHCMadden
Starward Small Batch Hungarian Oak
Single Malt — Melbourne, Victoria, Australia
Reviewed
November 8, 2022 (edited November 23, 2022)
Something tells me that I’ll be the only person to leave notes for this strange concoction…
Starward are just about the biggest producers of Australian Whisky to the wider world. They have done some OK stuff. They’ve also done some bad stuff that they then gave away for free (maple cask that I tasted earlier this year). They’ve even managed to clean up at the SFWSC competition this year taking out “most awarded distillery” with eight double golds. Are they that good, really? Everything I’ve tasted so far leads me to think, probably not.
Starward have a ‘small batch series’ where they try out experimental new expressions like ginger beer cask and the failed maple syrup cask. This is their third release, the Hungarian Oak. Starward released just 1200 bottles of this liquid matured in ex-Hungarian oak red wine casks and charred Hungarian oak casks. The Hungarian Oak is a blend of three barrels. Two were fresh fill barrels filled in January 2016 at Essendon Fields distillery. The third barrel was filled in August 2017 at Port Melbourne and then transferred into a charred Hungarian oak in 2019. It was blended in August 2021 making it under four years old. Not wanting to risk buying a bottle, I tracked down a 30 ml sample.
N: drying woody notes are dominant, syrupy thick blackcurrant, big huffs and there is a plastic vanilla that isn’t particularly fun; I’m glad its hidden so well. Faintest banana. Maybe some really generic baking spice. To be honest this is somewhat dull.
P: Oh man that sucks the moisture off your tongue. Have you ever licked chalk or clay? Your tongue will stick to it like crazy. Once this stuff exits your mouth, your tongue and roof of mouth feel like they are being vacuumed into another dimension. Possibly the most astringent thing I’ve ever drunk. After that distraction I’m finding mocha with pleasant bitter-sweetness, toffee, nutmeg and a solid roasted oak heft. Blackcurrant and maybe a little raisiny fruit.
F: Medium-long. Led by pepper and oak tannins with a little vanilla toffee. Leads to more astringency though.
I hit this with a liberal splash of water. At 50% and how drying this palate is I figured the water was warranted. A good move. The nose doesn’t move much for me. But the palate relaxes, the desert air that removes all mention of moisture (and your soul) has chilled out and turned into a thickly creamy mouthfeel. If I didn’t know better I could be made to believe this is weird wooded chardonnay. Slightly nutty, the mocha is less prominent, banana has entered the chat and the dark fruits have combined into a single generic lifting sweetness. I’m liking this now. If I could churn this into butter I would liberally apply it to bread and likely be very happy. Finish has moved to a soft buttery toffee with less aggressive tannins.
This was my first outing with Hungarian Oak, and I didn’t know what to expect. The higher proof opening on the palate here did not work for me. The spirit and the wood did not play well in my book. But, tempered with a good bit of water things started to get along better. I have had a fair bit of French Oak of late and that is definitely the silkier and creamier brethren to the roasty weight that Hungarian wood throws in here. Very much a barrel driven whisky. The red wine flavours that Starward espouse as the principal profile that unites their offerings plays second fiddle here, maybe even third or fourth fiddle, the oak is just that big. More careful balance and Starward might have been onto a winner for me. Double gold at SFWSC, I now have no idea what that means. I give it an interesting and middle of the pack medal and a good effort sticker.
[Pictured here with an Emerald Phlogopite Schist from Kagem’s Fibolele mine in Zambia that has its origins dating back over 1.7 billion years. No particular reason, I just had it out this evening and its pretty]
Distiller whisky taste #103
139.0
AUD
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Bottle
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@LouisianaLonghorn Starward are still independent, but accepted a sizable investment package from a Diageo arms-length investment company. As the Doc said, it's not poor cask management but a combination of over-enthusiasm and a strong desire to be noticed. Many Australian distilleries do the same, but this culture is changing slowly. I'll shortly be reviewing the new releases from Cape Byron Distillery in northern NSW, and they are taking a much more relaxed and grass-roots approach, most likely because Jim McEwan (the former whisky maker at Bruichladdich) is involved in designing the spirit and advising on maturation).
@LouisianaLonghorn yes, I believe the Oracle commented on my recent Fortis notes as to what happened there… I don’t even think it’s poor cask management. It’s new make Australians trying to reinvent the wheel to put them selves on the map versus the more established Tassie names. This is why I’m such a fan of Limeburners. They are doing things right and taking their time without trying to be fancy or mad scientists with their approach.
@DrRHCMadden I believe Starward was acquired by Diageo last year, which could possibly explain both the seemingly poor cask management and the fact we can buy it here in the states at our big box liquor stores.
@cascode yeah. I’ll probably try the two grain again, that at least works for what it’s supposed to be doing. And I am all for supporting our relative locals. But yeah, they need to stop pedalling experiemental averageness as edgy and innovative.
@pkingmartin haha, Whisky induced ramblings….
Great review, and it sounds like a Starward for sure. I'm really tired of the tendency that new distilleries everywhere have of selling experiments to consumers under the guise of being special "small batches". They should keep this stuff in the distillery and give tastes away for free and concentrate on making good basic whisky. Grumble, moan ... get off my lawn you kids. Oh, and definitely keep up with "whisky on the rocks" pictures and info - I look forward to each new instalment :)
@DrRHCMadden Yes, keep the whisky and rocks coming!! Glad to hear there’s more than enough interesting rocks to add to your already informative and fun whisky reviews for the foreseeable future.
@PBMichiganWolverine have you seen my Instagram? I have around 1000 specimens in my home office alone… let alone the rest of the house or my lab where I actually do my work! Haha! By the time I’ve drunk that much whisky, I’ll likely be dead.
@DrRHCMadden no, no—-the whiskey on the rocks ( pun intended) is your calling card. You gotta have that. But at some point , I’m guessing you’ll run out of geologic worthy rocks. When that happens, just pick up any stone from the street. We won’t know any better. 😊
@PBMichiganWolverine sure is. Well, kind of. Gem quality stones of any type need to be big enough to cut and free of significant inclusions and defects. These might be ok for small cabachons but you wouldn’t want them in an engagement ring. I wonder if I need to stop with the whisky on the rocks. They get more attention than the whisky. Ha!
@DrRHCMadden naive question….that’s the same emerald from where the gem stone is derived ?