DrRHCMadden
Johnnie Walker Blue Label
Blended — Scotland
Reviewed
February 2, 2023 (edited May 31, 2023)
Still angry about JW18 pulling the wool over everyones eyes in what I shall now refer to as a Loch Lomond age statement manoeuvre, I decided a redemption dram was needed. Last night was a wasted dram. I hope the supposed pinnacle of JW standard offerings, blue; delivers the goods. Other than maybe all of Macallan, is there a more enigmatic bottle of whisky than Blue Label? Does anything else reek quite so much of opulence, over expense, and prestige quite like the Blue? Heck, even Archer likely parodies it with ‘Glengoolie Blue - for the best of times”. Does it deserve such a high degree of reverence? Or, is it simply an expensive gift for the non-whisky savvy? A clever ploy in marketing to sell mediocre for a premium? I don’t know… yet.
I have had blue label before. A 350 ml bottle bought in my early days of whisky amateur power hour, not too different from today I guess. I remember nothing of the experience. Today, we rectify this. Turns out that little Tommy in marketing has been putting his creative writing and tourism degree to good use with this blurb: “Johnnie Walker Blue Label is an unrivalled masterpiece – an exquisite combination of Scotland’s rarest and most exceptional whiskies. Only one in every ten thousand casks has the elusive quality, character and flavour to deliver the remarkable signature taste. An extraordinary whisky for extraordinary occasions.”
Damn it Tommy! I call BS! Unrivalled, are you kidding? 1/10,000 casks has the elusive quality, yet they claim consistency of product and churn this stuff out without restriction? Being a claimed rare blend of old grain and malts it surprises me that they don’t add an age statement. I guess they need to keep their options open to mix in plenty of that grain they love so much over at JW HQ. Apparently though the age of the liquids that are going in are 28-60 years old. Gosh!
Right, enough chit chat. This has had 15 minutes to open up next to me…
N: Slightly thin to oily approach with a surprisingly aggressive little kick of ethanol. First distinct aromas are good quality deep wood notes then comes (strap in): a mixed woody spice (like a bakery version of potpourris), fresh grass, slight sherry influence with some generic berry(?) fruits, malt, and gentle vanilla. There is some smoke here too, but nothing about it is distinct or captivating. The smoke may actually be closer to a barrel char? Lightly perfumed, cedar/sandalwood.
P: Lightly oily with a good presence of body. First sip and smoke is wrapping around the edges enveloping everything. The smoke is a happy interplay of ashy, maritime, and vegetal to lightly herbal/heathery. This smoke doesn’t really seem to land on any one thing. Unwrapping the smoke envelope: honeyed cereals, milk chocolate, mocha, old english toffee, juicy-fruitiness (apples and pears), cinnamon and wood spice.
F: Medium. The palate clears to a surprising amount of ethanol heat (remember, this is only 40% ABV) and a slightly unclean grainy residual texture that I think was intended to be hidden under the oaky, slightly smoky, and honeyed exit.
First up. This is impressive liquid, but not necessarily with connotations of excellence. I think this is ambitious. DIageo clearly have a huge portfolio of barrels and styles to chose from, and they have ambitiously set out to create something that is monetarily rich, impressive, and enigmatic. They have achieved that. The complexity of flavours and layers are borderline stupefying to me. But, that comes at a cost. For me, there is a lack of cohesion and clear intention. So much is vying for my attention that my palate scrambles to know where to go. Is that a reflection of my rank amateurishness? Possibly. I suspect the grain component, which I am concluding has a muting effect in the core range of JW, is actually necessary here. Something is needed to try and soften and homogenise the profile. The disappointing aspect though, is that maybe the grain, or perhaps something over aged (why else put 60 year old juice in?) has been hidden in here that I now find as an almost dirty thread in the finish.
I loathe the use of the word smooth to describe whisky. Smooth is the absence of something. The lack of texture, character, nuance. But, it’s the word so commonly associated with JW Blue. JW blue is the gift you give to show off that you’ve given an expensive gift. If that is indeed the case, then you want the uninitiated that believe it to be the pinnacle of whisky to find no harsh or rough edges (even though I’m pretty sure I caught one). How do you do that though? I think you can go for super simple, or throw everything and the kitchen sink in. Thats what I surmise here. Overwhelm with dizzying complexity and hide some less than ideal aged stock in the mix to validate the cost.
This is the end of of my JW exploration. And I can’t say I’m surprised. Its largely generic whisky intended for an undiscerning crowd on a scale of mass production that is impressive for what actually gets turned out. My top rated, Green label. The biggest disappointment is a tie between Blue and 18. My personal favourite, if not objectively that great; double black.
Wow, this was a long one, I’ll be happy to hear thoughts from anyone who has stuck with me through this exploration and made it to the end!
[Pictured here with a blue mineral for a blue label. This rock will kill you. Legitimately; thats why its under a closh. A single air borne exposure of this stuff and you are all but guaranteed to develop malignant mesothelioma; I’m told that comes with the worst pain a human can experience. This is crocidolite, a type of asbestos known as ‘blue death’. There are few things in life that genuinely terrify me. This rock is one of them. At 2.4-2.6 billion years old this fibrous blue mass is mineralised between iron ore and was responsible for some truly horrendous repercussions for a generation of people… look up Wittenoom, Western Australia. Absolute horror story where this lump calls home.]
Distiller whisky taste #150 - Do I qualify for an upgrade to level 3 whisky buffoon now?
Johnnie Walker running scores
Red: 2.0
Black 12: 2.5
Black Islay Origins: 3.5
Double Black: 3.25
Gold: 3.5
Green 15: 4.25
18: 2.5
Blue: 4.0
257.95
AUD
per
Bottle
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@PBMichiganWolverine your donation to the cause will be welcomed 😅
@DrRHCMadden that’s $1400USD. At that price, might as well buy an unadulterated bottle of 100% pure Brora
@cascode is it your round? Hahaha
@DrRHCMadden 😳
@PBMichiganWolverine I just found a bottle for AUD$2100. Sounds approachable.
@DrRHCMadden at some point , I’m hoping you get a chance to put Ghost and Rare Brora on this list
@pkingmartin @cascode @PBMichiganWolverine @Scott_E makes me laugh that you all came for the whisky and stayed for the rocks. Ha.
@cascode yeah, the original was perfectly fine. But in a stacked market, it doesn’t stand out either. LL is, as far as I can tell, to be used for blending and independent crafting. Not ageing and bottling as is.
@DrRHCMadden The Scotch Malt Whisky Society releases some sort of Loch Lomond expression almost every month and the ones I’ve had have all been OK and much better than the distillery’s own bottlings. I think the SMWS supplies their own casks that are filled for them to order, which is probably the main distinction. The LL age statement whiskies are not at all to my taste, but I do have a liking for their bottom of the range NAS malt, Original, and the NAS blend Reserve.
@PBMichiganWolverine indeed. For more mineral fun times state side, look up the use of erionite in South Dakota. Erionite is about 400x more carcinogenic than blue death….
@DrRHCMadden haha, fair enough then. I rather liked the ll18, though I can't say dish soap is a completely unfair note either
@DrRHCMadden haha, fair enough then. I rather liked the ll18, though I can't say dish soap is a completely unfair not
@PBMichiganWolverine @DrRHCMadden totally agreed. This is just one more of those things you gamble with when you blow some smoke. Terrible habit imo
@DrRHCMadden @Scott_E although in all fairness, if you smoke, the material they use as a filter is just one of your problems. Either way, you’ve signed up for cancer. Just a matter of which one.
@dhsilv2 if you look at my LL reviews from a little while back you’ll see some of mine, and others commentary. LL have released some 12 and 18 year olds. Very affordable for the Age statements. They have alarmingly high review scores. But, to anyone that stops and reflects; they are dish water. I think to the masses there is still a view that age and single malt on a label makes it quality, makes it excellent. People get suckered in and just make themselves believe it is good. LL were amongst the worst things I put in my mouth last year.
OK so what is the Loch Lomond age statement manoeuvre?
@Scott_E and it continued to be use long after the consequences were known. Classic capitalist approach, same as exonn and climate.
Interesting mineral. I had to read some more about it. In doing so, it was reported that Kent Micronite cigarettes used this as a filter. They were produced from 1952-1956. 10mg per cigarette. Crazy stuff.
@PBMichiganWolverine if you go on Google earth, and look in the canyons around the area you can see scree slopes that are just blue…. The town has signs that basically say “if you stop, you die, do not come through here”
@PBMichiganWolverine Australia is trying to kill you: look up Gubbi Gubbi plant. Then have more nightmares. Everglades has some wicked stuff though. Wouldn’t mind going back to northern Fl again one day.
@DrRHCMadden just read that story on Wittennoom. Am shocked to see thrill seeking tourists still trying to visit!
@DrRHCMadden that rock sounds scary. Reminded me of this one tree that grows in the Florida swamps…manchineel. Ironically, the antidote of that tree grows always nearby it.
@DrRHCMadden Ah that’s a miniature, yes? I think my bottle is a 2021 batch but I have no idea how the small bottle numbers work.
@cascode bottle number ZF156757
BD you can even get a 200 ml if you have available. This is good scotch just overpriced.
@BDanner I think it's worth it. It's still a whisky icon good or bad, its an experience. The 1/10000 barrel claim in combination with the consistency JW espouse that I find incredulous opens up the large potential for batch variation and a better (better than 4/5) experience...
@cascode I'll have to check the bottle number later. I got all but the Green as 50 ml 'distillery miniatures' no way I was shelling out $250 for a full bottle before I knew what I was pouring. Thanks for the induction, not sure what I have to look forward to at 200, amateur > simpleton > buffoon > ? I am sure that I'm looking forward to the journey. The honeyed malt is the only thing that I can now really recall on my palate after the commitee of sleep have gone to work. That is a damning indictment. Darkest Winter and Highland Park Dark, Talisker 8 to name a few; I can recall the full experience if I close my eyes.
@pkingmartin Thanks Sir. Yep crocidolite is something I wish nature could uncreate. Pretty gnarly historical photos of kids playing in sandpits filled with the stuff. The stuff got used in everything, and as seems to be the case with humans; was used beyond knowledge of its horrendous nature.
@BDanner Actually I say go for it - the JW "experience" is incomplete without at least one glass of Blue Label.
I love the Green Label. I’ve been tempted to take a $20 gamble on a Blue 50ml just to see if it lives up to the hype. Doesn’t sound like it.
@DrRHCMadden Bravo! I always look forward to your reviews but this is the definitive description of everything about core range JW Blue Label. I hereby induct thee into the 3rd level of Whisky Nerdishness (collect your ceremonial robes from the steward). What is the batch on your bottle? I currently have a "L2102DND10 00006912" open, the first Blue Lable I've had for 5 years (it was a Christmes gift). It seems a little less satiny and textural than the last time I tasted it and I'm noticing a lot of honey on the palate - particularly as it develops in the glencairn.
@DrRHCMadden Great series of reviews and good to know that Green is still on top. That rock sounds absolutely terrifying!! Congrats on 150 reviews and I look forward to reading many more.