Dreaming-of-Islay
Kilkerran 12 Year
Single Malt — Campbeltown, Scotland
Reviewed
October 4, 2017 (edited October 21, 2024)
If medieval monks made scotch, it'd be Kilkerran 12. The monks wouldn't have chill filtering or artificial colors, of course. And perhaps the more artistic among them would even make a label akin to this elegant, black-and-white statement. Never change, Kilkerran. Don't let the ad executives and marketing department corrupt this scotch. There's a lot to love here on the nose: tropical fruit, high minerality, earthy peat, soil, vanilla, and sherry. This scotch is similar to Kilchoman Machir Bay but a little fruitier, and a little less smoky. It has the earthy, "farmy" characteristic that's often associated with Campbeltown scotches. This is a sweet and floral take on a peated scotch, with a lot of pepper and spice starting in the mid-palate. It's got a Highland single malt character at the beginning, but those flavors roll deep. The acidic lemon-lime notes that are common to Islay and Campbeltown scotches stand out immediately, yet this dram shifts between the citrus fruits, sometimes coming closer to grapefruit. The texture is oily and almost feels like there's some grittiness to it -- not in a bad way, just because some of that minerality carries through to the palate as well. The sherried finish here is reminiscent of Bunnahabhain 12, but with little wisps of smoke and mint, and a generous shake of pepper. Fresh green wood lingers the longest. It has a bit too much of that citrus acid in my opinion, which knocks it down one peg below the Ardbegs and Kilchomans of the world. That being said, this is a stellar 12-year scotch with an interesting interplay of flavors. For what it's worth, it also was the biggest hit at a party with a bunch of friends, so Kilkerran hits that sweet spot where a lot of different palates find it enjoyable.
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This review just brought me right back to McKersie’s mansion dining room, and the window seat we had overlooking Campbeltown Loch. This was the whisky I drank that night and it is a very accurate description of an excellent dram. Well done!
Thankfully, I don't think there's any danger of marketing departments futzing about with anything to do with Kilkerran. Springbank don't do that nonsense :-)