A wine barrel finish on a very old whisky is often like a bad paint job on a neglected classic car, a clumsy attempt to cover up the shortcomings of the original cask. But it’s forgivable when it’s done by Bruichladdich for a couple of reasons. One, the management is transparent about the fact that the whisky they inherited when they restarted the distillery was mostly knackered. Two, the guy who led its revival had a background in the wine industry, so it’s fair to assume they know what makes a good wine cask. Yet even if you didn’t know any of the above, it’s hard not to love Black Art. Although the distillery is atypically secretive about the mix of casks in the blend, there’s no disguising the wine influence. From nose to tail, the flavors of old red wine are deeply integrated into the spirit. It would make for a rich and delicious nightcap. I also tried the new 6.1 version, which is just as good. It’s a little sweeter and softer, with chocolate notes.