Slainte-Mhath
Invergordon 1973 44 Year (Mancarella)
Single Grain — Highlands, Scotland
Reviewed
January 12, 2020 (edited June 15, 2024)
Given the right cask and a few decades to mature, grain whiskies can be fabulous. Invergordons from the 1970s are among the best bottles you can find, and this 44-year-old Mancarella is no exception. Delightful, sweet and cereal-rich, the nose combines crème brûlée, exotic tea and pastries with cloves, cocoa butter and hints of acetone. After a dense, oily and almost rum-like arrival, pineapple, lemon zest and brown sugar merge with walnuts, mint and ginger. Quality oak spices, confectionery and grapefruit sparkle in the aftertaste. A top-notch grain!
RATING: 4.5/5.0 stars ≙ 91 pts → SUPERB
200.0
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WHISKY OF THE YEAR 2020: It has been a crazy year, but we made it! I survived COVID-19 in March, discovered the world of grain whiskies, tasted some 100 new malts, and dearly missed all the canceled festivals. I have already indicated it, my personal whisky highlight of 2020 is 🥃' Old Grain Whisky' 🥃 in general. I'm aware that this specific Invergordon is not available to most of you, but there are many superb grains out there, it doesn't matter. I recommend grains of at least 30 years of age (most grain whiskies mature slower!), do your homework, read reviews online and compare prices. There is great value to be found in old grain whiskies! Previously as 'Whisky of the Year': 2019 - Yamazaki 12; 2018 – Springbank 12 CS; 2017 - GlenDronach 12; 2016 - Caol Ila 12.
@Soba45 I chose that particular Caledonian because two of my whisky buddies scored it 90 pts, and 139 € seemed about right for a 30 yo closed distillery grain.
@PBMichiganWolverine @Generously_Paul I've heard of Abhainn Dearg's horrible reputation, but I haven't tried it myself. Give them time, things might improve.
@Slainte-Mhath Nice! Yeah I was thinking that the specfic cask is even more critical than 70% as 30 to 40 years is a hell of a long time to do its work. I read an interesting article about the big bourbon producers who do mass experimentation with all the variables e.g. 100 versions of exactly the same bourbon via mash bill, cask type, cask location, and even specific location in a warehouse e.g. Elevated vs ground level. There can be massive differences in exactly the same mash bill, exactly the same wood from the same tree in exactly the same warehouse simply one being near the roof rather than ground (these are massively tall warehouses) as the temperature fluctuation is more extreme. And that's over periods of several years let alone 30!
@PBMichiganWolverine let’s not go crazy here. I gave it a 3, not exactly high marks, but I didn’t think it was bear piss either
@Slainte-Mhath the only thing worse than a Girvan I’ve had was the inaugural release of Abhainn Dearg. I bought that in Munich...in retrospect I’m Thinking that bottle was a fraud and probably had bear piss instead of whisky. @Generously_Paul really liked it though...so who knows.
@PBMichiganWolverine @Scott_E I have tasted a few Girvan's, none of which were very flattering. Even the 42 yo Girvan I had (Mr. Grain) was somewhat 'dirty'. It is funny that it's the only grain distillery which does not allow IB's to use the name on the label. Undisclosed grain = Girvan.
@PBMichiganWolverine you mean from the scoreboard? Highest was a 2/5. You rated 1.5 and I rated 1.25.
@Scott_E I still recoil at the thought of that Givran. Do you recall how old it was? I think low 20s?
@Soba45 Following your advice, I sourced a Caledonian 30 yo 1987 (The Grainman) for about 140 € on the secondary market. I have tasted it before, and although not quite on par with this Invergordon, I remember that it was a really nice grain!
@Slainte-Mhath MoM does loads of different samples. Try before you spend 10 times the amount on a bottle :-). I personally think I just got a great casking not that Caledonian in particular is that special https://www.masterofmalt.com/distilleries/caledonian-whisky-distillery/#context-search
@Soba45 I will looked out for a decently aged Caledonian, although they tend to be more expensive due to the fact that it's a closed distillery.
@Slainte-Mhath The Calledonian by far. Really crazy interesting dram. Yeah these were often very limited runs of a 100 or so bottles generally so reviews just weren't around plus I just bought samples to try stuff out so I wasn't that fussed about misses. I think I agree with cascode about casking being the factor. I think the good from the bad is just separated by the IBs tasting and choosing a great one and then buying and releasing it at the price point they want. As there is a hell of a lot of old grain stock people also buy up the crap casking ones and flog those off to. I personally think the grain spirit has little influence. They say the casking can have up to 70% influence on the result and that's for single malts, gains are like blank canvases more or less in comparison.
Compass Box Headonism the Muse just recently dropped. That's a great one .
@cascode I got this particular bottle through the IB (Mancarella) himself. The bottle was sold out in 2018, but I offered a little more than the retail price after reading reviews on Whiskybase and Angus' take on Whiskyfun. It was worth every penny.
@Slainte-Mhath Actually, thinking about it a bit more, maybe the casks were the critical factor. Grain whisky is pretty much all about the cask when all is said and done, and if you're going to stick something into a barrel for 40 years, it had better be a good one! This 1973 Invergordon sounds like a cracker, BTW. Was it in long term stash or an auction acquisition?
@Slainte-Mhath I don't know whether it was better casks, different production methods, different parent companies or sheer age. However I have tasted as many indifferent 70s grain whiskies (and malts) as good ones. Maybe the 80s slump and the "whisky lake" saw economies being forced on production right through the industry along with closures and that had a flow-on effect. A lot of highly skilled old-timers were laid off at this time to and their knowledge walked out the door with them. I'm probably a little less discerning than you as I don't mind current production mass market grain whiskey either, but certainly the really old expressions can be magic.
@cascode I find it interesting that grains from the 1970s stand out, while many bottles from the 80s - despite being 30 years plus - are getting much lower ratings. I wonder if this is due to better casks being used in the 1970s. I have yet to find a young (25 yo or less) grain which I really like.
@Soba45 You have tasted quite a few grains. I know one must be a bit careful, as there are many subpar bottles out there. Age statements alone can be deceiving. I always check reviews first and try to go for bottles that have at least 20 ratings+. From the grains you mentioned, which of them did you like most?
@Slainte-Mhath I've only tasted a few, and not than many recently. Last year I had a North Star Invergordon 1987/2018 at a tasting event and very much enjoyed it (86/100). Other than that my journal says the standouts have been Duncan Taylor Caledonian 1974/2004 (87/100), Cambus 1975/2016 (89/100), Duncan Taylor Cameronbridge 1979/2009 (91/100), Cadenhead Girvan 1979/2013 (84/100) and Cadenhead Invergordon 1991/2013 (81/100). Some of those I owned, some were tasted at events. All the other grains in the journal are rated at less than 80/100, apart from Hedonism, which I actually quite like (80/100).
@Slainte-Mhath Port Dundas I have a 20 year to try and I had a Strathclyde 11 Year Old 2005 (cask 11952) - Old Particular (Douglas Laing) also very average. So in summary I've covered them all I think except no sign of North of Scotland...not sure how I missed that one on my travels but vaguely I think I mistook it for North British and skipped it. will have to see if I can remedy!
@Slainte-Mhath And another terrible one. North British 27 year Batch 3 (That Boutique-y Whiskey Co.). And a very average Invergordan from 'The Darkness', not everything from there is great but it was 25 year not really old
@Slainte-Mhath Ah yes your right. Wow that man really sounds like he knows his stuff. looking at that list I have also tasted a Garnheath - 42 year old (cask 11524) Xtra Old Particular (Douglas Laing) Very very average.
@Slainte-Mhath no nothing from me from those upper echelons. I’ve only had a few bottom to mid-shelf Irish.
No single grains for me. Couple of CBs in the queue but it’s a long queue. :)
@Slainte-Mhath. No I haven’t gotten into grain whiskies as yet.
@Slainte-Mhath I haven’t had many single grain whiskies. Girvan was the only one I can recall and it was one of the worst I have ever had. Col Taylor 4 grain was one of the best I ever had.
@Slainte-Mhath the only grain I’ve tried is Compass Box Hedonism. It was nice. Lots of vanilla and coconut, bit I couldn’t bring myself to spend $100 on a bottle.
@Soba45 Teaninich is a malt distillery, or am I mistaken? An experienced grain drinker sent me this advice: 'About the grain whiskies, in principle all old grain whiskies are good, especially old grain whiskies from the sixties, very syrupy (better than cough syrup). You can choose from the closed ones Caledonian 88/90, Cambus 88, Carsebridge 86, Dumbarton 86, Garnheath 88, North of Scotland 88 and Port Dundas 88. Or the open ones, Cameronbridge 88, Girvan 84 the lesser one, Invergordon 88/90, North British 86/90 and Strathclyde 88.'
@Slainte-Mhath Other good ones I've had Dumbarton 51 year 1964 (cask 11181) Xtra Old Particular (Douglas Laing) Teaninich 1973 40 Year Executive Decision (Douglas Laing & Co.) Calledonian The Sovereign 1982 cask 14271 (Hunter Laing) Cameronbridge 24 year Batch 2 (That Boutique-y Whisky Company) I've had terrible Cambus 24 year Batch 2 (That Boutique-y Whisky Company) Girvin 1979 36 Year Old The Sovereign (Hunter Laing & Co)
@Slainte-Mhath I had a 28 year old Port Dundas that was incredible and a 25 year old Cambus that was very good. I would agree to sticking to older single grains
@Slainte-Mhath Nice review :-). I had an Adelphi 1972 43 Year Old CS single grain which was the lowest cask strength I'd ever had at 42.3%!
@1901 @cascode @dmoyer @dubz480 @Generously_Paul @PBMichiganWolverine @LeeEvolved @Rick_M @ScotchingHard @Scott_E @Soba45 @WhiskeyLonghorn Have you tasted any grain whiskies which you would recommend? My positive encounters were mostly limited to Invergordon thus far, but I am planning to buy a few more grains this year. Caledonian, Cameronbridge and Port Dundas are on my list, but I am avoiding anything younger than 25 years.
Same to you!
Additional information: Dino Mancarella in a German independent bottler who focusses on highest quality casks. This Invergordon 1973 was matured in a bourbon barrel, bottled at 52.3% ABV, and limited to 106 bottles. Slàinte and a Happy New Year to everyone!