Tastes

Springbank Whisky Tasting, The Oak Barrel, Sydney, 17 April 2024, Whisky #4 Tasted from bottle number 98. Nose: Lots of sherry, dark malt, orange oil, leather, Demerara sugar. Unrecognisable as a Springbank – it’s more like a big old Blair Athol or Benrinnes. Palate: Drying arrival with heaps of sherry. Raisins, walnuts, semi-sweet stewed and dried fruits (figs, dates). The Springbank character asserts itself as a meaty quality as the development kicks in but there is not a lot of progression. Toffee, some soft tannins and a little gentle wood smoke. The texture is good but not amazing. Finish: Medium/Long. Sherry, old oak, stone fruits. This expression was bottled under the "Darkness" label, which is owned by independent bottler Atom Brands (they also own That Boutique-y Whisky, amongst others). The Darkness label is for whiskies that have received intense oloroso sherry finishing. This was was matured for 21 years prior to receiving 6 months of finishing in octave casks (either seasoned with sherry or re-coopered from sherry casks – I’m not sure which). 203 bottles were released so the maturation must have been in two such octaves. If you love sherry monsters you’d probably enjoy this one but if you are seeking Springbank character it’s pretty much obscured here. I would rather have tasted this prior to the finishing. Water had little impact on the nose but it made the palate a lot sweeter. It’s nice enough whisky for sure but in the end I thought it was a curious sideshow exhibit rather than a headline attraction, and at the rather expensive price (particularly for a 500ml bottle!) it’s not one I would recommend to anyone but a hard-core Springbank completionist. “Good” : 83/100 (3.5 stars)

Springbank Whisky Tasting, The Oak Barrel, Sydney, 17 April 2024, Whisky #3 Bottle code 17/11/22 – 22/2320 Nose: Lemon zest, damp earth, autumn leaves, leather, brine, petrichor, senega, tobacco, medium sherry. Water initially makes very little difference to the nose but once diluted, and after resting for a while, there is a touch of maple syrup and caramel. Palate: Forceful arrival with oily decaying fruit, farmyard earthiness and manure, salt-cured meat, mineral oil and olive brine. A little mint or menthol in the later development together with salted nuts and tobacco. Although it is a bold and characterful palate it is also crisp and clean. The texture is oily and persistant. Finish: Medium. Dusty leaves on old dirt paths in summer. Dried figs, lanolin and old fruity malt extract. A fine whisky that showcases the uncompromising farmyard character of this malt. Hazelburn distillate is more usually matured in ex-bourbon, but sherry casks bring greater depth and an interesting medium-dry fruit quality to the whisky. It is also a whisky that absolutely loves water. If you have only tasted Hazelburn neat and have a prejudice against watering your whisky then for once take a chance and add a full teaspoon of water to your dram. It transforms the texture from oily to vivacious creaminess, but most importantly it melds all the distinctive (and for some people offputting) farmyard characteristics into a complex and complete whole that is way more than just the sum of the parts. There has been a series of these oloroso cask Hazelburn expressions and they are uniformly delightful. “Excellent” : 88/100 (4.5 stars)

Nose: Soft vanilla, stone fruits and floral aromas (particularly honeysuckle). Palate: Sweet arrival with honey and red apple. The core of the palate is fruity and cereal. The development is moderate and mainly brings more sweet malt into focus but there is a slightly papery, cellulose flavour that unsettles the balance. The texture is good with a creamy, buttery quality. Finish: Medium. Sweet cereal and vanilla turning slightly sour, but a taste of honey persists. Strathisla has always been a little hidden as a single malt, which is a pity. The distillery is promoted as the “Home of Chivas Regal” and most of its production goes into Chivas blends, but they do sell special release distillery door single malts and IBs occasionally release a Strathisla expression. The primary OB for a long time was a very pleasant 12 year old, however that was withdrawn a few years ago. Happily, this 11 year old is due for wide release later this year but while it is very similar to the old 12 year, it’s not quite the same. There is a fraction less intensity to the profile, it seems less “honeyed”, and I detected an elusive papery, cardboard note on the palate. I believe it is all bourbon matured whereas the old 12 year had some sherry cask in the recipe. Still, it will be good to see an entry-level Strathisla back on the shelves. “Above Average” : 82/100 (3.25 stars)

Originally reviewed April 3, 2019. This review used to be posted under “STRATHISLA 12 YEAR” but that expression was discontinued a few years ago. The Distiller editors made an error and changed the title of that listing to “CHIVAS REGAL STRATHISLA 12 YEAR DISTILLERY COLLECTION” (which was a limited edition) and then made this listing for the old bottle, confusing everything. I’ve moved the review here where it should be. ————————————————————————- Nose: Fragrant, flowery malt. Violet, freesia, apricot, honeysuckle, rich honeyed grain. A very soft and seductive nose that invites long, deep inhalation. [The dry glass has a strong honey aroma with a hint of barrel char]. Palate: A sweet and soft honey and cereal arrival - like a bowl of honey flavoured breakfast cereal with cream and sliced apples. The development is not profound but a long roll around the mouth uncovers some deeper grain and malty flavours (waffles and honey following the cereal), but it remains very sweet and approachable at all times. The texture is good, fairly neutral and creamy/buttery rather than oily. Finish: Medium. Smooth, soft vanilla, malt and fruity notes slowly fade into a restful slumber. The aftertaste is very sweet honey. A perfect nightcap dram, and also a perfect single malt for novices. There is nothing whatsoever challenging about this whisky, but neither is it generic. There is personality, but it's all very genteel and well-mannered. I don't get the toffee note that many folks mention - for me it is more honeyed, but that's just individual taste. If you're looking for a highly characterful, assertive malt then look elsewhere - this is a cosy dram for taking at a measured pace in a peaceful setting. Extremely easy to drink and non-confronting, there is a slight resemblance to Aberfeldy and also to Tomintoul. I love intense cask-strength whiskies but this particular bottling will always have a place on my bar. If you enjoy the flavour of whisky but find most malts to be too intense or hot for comfort then try this - it could be exactly what you are looking for. "Above Average" : 82/100 (3.25 stars)

Nose: Warming, soft sweet peat smoke, red fruits, vanilla, a little brine. Palate: An instant peat smoke hit which is much more intense and angular than the nose would suggest. Sour brine, earth, bitter tobacco. Water does not improve the palate, merely bringing out sour plastic notes. Finish: Medium/Long. Smoky and earthy with white orchard fruit flavours that trail into a sour aftertaste. A hand-drawn distillery exclusive that is part of Glen Moray’s “Private Cask Collection”, in this case taken from ex-cognac cask #2295 which had been filled with peated new make. I could nose this whisky all day but it falls flat on its face when you get to the palate. When I nosed the two cask-strength offerings that were available when I visited Glen Moray this one immediately captured my attention and overshadowed the port cask expression. However once both had been tasted it was clear to me which was the superior dram, and adding water definitely confirmed that assessment. I tried it at several dilutions and it was only when heavily watered (I’d guess to around 25%abv) that it became palatable, but even then it’s not something I would buy or recommend. Tasted at the distillery. “Average” : 75/100 (2.5 stars)

Nose: Big fruity nose full of red berries and stewed prunes. There is a touch of menthol and a lot of leafy, earthy tobacco, leather and lashings of dark chocolate sauce. You often hear “chocolate” used as a descriptor but this whisky has that aroma in spades. Palate: The neat palate is immediately sweet and fruity, followed by a lot of mouth-watering alcohol. Some sour walnuts, sour cherries, black currants and chewing tobacco. Water substantially softens and sweetens the palate and is thoroughly recommended. Finish: Medium/Long: Christmas cake fruits and spices with dark chocolate. Water does not spoil the length but does make the finish softer. A hand-drawn distillery exclusive that is part of Glen Moray’s “Private Cask Collection”, in this case taken from a port cask (almost certainly a pipe) #6025486. A big, bold and demonstrative whisky that only comes into its best with a generous dash of water. The only downside is that while this greatly improves the palate it does kill the nose, which is a shame. I’m giving this the highest rating I’ve yet awarded to a Glen Moray whisky. They need to start issuing cask-strength, single cask expressions as a regular thing. Tasted at the distillery. “Very Good” : 85/100 (4 stars)

Nose: Old oak, leather, full-bodied fortified wine. Lemon zest, barley sugar. There is both a light and dark side to this nose. Water improves it by adding structure and body. Palate: Spicy and semi-sweet arrival with lots of the wine influence. Raisins and walnuts in the development, turning gradually sweeter. Leafy and earthy with a little tobacco. The texture is OK. When watered the palate develops balancing sweetness which is very welcome. Finish: Medium. Leather and tobacco with slightly bitter citrus. Again the finish is sweetened and lengthened by dilution. The more usually encountered Glen Moray 21 has a port cask finish. This expression finished in Madeira casks is only allocated to the Chinese market, but it can also be tasted at the distillery. It’s good but not magnificent. A straightforward, capable whisky that is considerably improved by the addition of a teaspoon of water. When tasted neat I was going to give this 3.5 at best but with water it approaches 4 stars … but just misses. Tasted at the distillery. “Good” : 84/100 (3.75 stars)

Nose: Flowers, fresh cut grass, malt, honey, butter, beeswax, vanilla, vanilla, vanilla, vanilla, vanilla, vanilla … a big, unctious, sweet nose. Palate: Sweet arrival with a huge cereal flavour. It’s like a bowl of porridge with lashings of honey topped with vanilla custard. There is also a crisp ale-like note and some sweet wood. The texture is very rich and creamy. There is no hint whatsoever of anything bitter, sour or tannic. Finish: Medium/short. Sweet cereal. A very simple malt with few characteristics or dimensions, but it is enormously easy to drink. A true session whisky. This is sourced from an undisclosed Speyside distillery and bottled for the Keith and Dufftown Railway by Duncan Taylor for sale on their trains. I do know which distillery makes it but it’s almost a caricature of their typical style. It is very popular and not like most Scottish single malts. It is more like an Irish pot-still whisky matured in virgin American oak, and it reminds me of Paddy Irish Whiskey. For the price this is a good everyday dram that you can quaff neat or with water, or use for mixing without guilt. Tasted on the Keith and Dufftown Railway “Dram Tram” “Above Average” : 80/100 (3 stars)

Nose: Sweet, rounded smoke, reminiscent of Caol Ila but without the maritime notes. Honey, toffee apple, and something citrus but not quite lemon - lemongrass maybe? Palate: Sweet smokey arrival, light peat on the palate with a trace of fruitiness (sultanas?), honey and vanilla. The texture is good. Finish: Medium. Smoke, salted caramel. The length is entirely due to the smoke. Otherwise it would be quite short. A very easy drinking smoky whisky with no sour or rubbery notes at all. The palate is a little one dimensional but perfectly acceptable. I did not notice anything much in the way of rum influence other than some honey and caramel notes, and it was refreshing to come across a subtle rum cask whisky. I’m not sure how big a role the smoke plays in modulating the rum. I admit I approached this with suspicion for some reason, being prepared to hate it, but I found myself liking it after all. Tasted on the Keith and Dufftown Railway “Dram Tram”, Sunday 5th May 2024. “Good” : 83/100 (3.5 stars)

Nose: Surprisingly light orange, apple and cereal with fragrant floral notes. Water makes no difference. Palate: Sweet, crisp arrival with toasted marshmallow and digestive biscuits. The development comes quickly and brings spicy, sharp notes of ginger and cinnamon. The texture is good but not heavy. Water makes it more creamy and softens the palate overall. Finish: Medium/Short. Brisk, sharp, spiced vanilla and cereal. This is a limited edition of the 15 year old that was matured exclusively in refill sherry casks and released as a distillery exclusive run of 1,000 bottles. It was created to commemorate the opening of Edinburgh Rugby’s DAM Health Stadium. Agreeable when neat, water does not change the nose but softens the palate, however it is not required. It’s a competent single malt and although there’s nothing about it that is objectively above average I’m giving it 3 stars as less than that seems subjectively wrong. “Above Average” : 80/100 (3 stars)