Tastes

“Bunnahabhain & Friends” tasting at The Oak Barrel, Sydney, 15 June 2022. Whisky #5 Nose: A deep, sweet fortified wine aroma, raisins, plums, blackberries, dark cherries, figs, toffee and a note of machine oil in the background. With water and a rest in the glass a softer syrupy fragrance appears. Palate: A sweet but dry arrival with stewed dark fruit almost overshadowed by intense cask tannin and astringently oily walnut skins. Morello cherries (but in a sweet syrup) and more dark fruits appear as it develops, with leather and tobacco notes gradually building. The texture is chewy, full-bodied and has a slightly mouth-puckering dryness with a touch of salt. A dash of water softens and sweetens the palate. Finish: Medium. The dark fruits and toffee from the palate fade gradually into a dry aftertaste with cocoa, walnut and spice. Port cask finishes are seldom ordinary, typically they are either wonderful or a disaster. Thankfully, this is one of the better examples. The majority of this whisky’s maturation was in sherry casks which provided a solid foundation for the more demonstrative finish. Most of the sherry wood was probably ex-oloroso but I could easily believe there was also some fino casking involved. A very good, full-bodied and interesting whisky but not one of the easiest to appreciate. I would not recommend this to novices as the leafy tannic dryness could be off-putting, but I think most experienced enthusiasts would find it interesting at the very least. I thought it was the second best Bunnahabhain expression we tasted on the night, after the excellent 18 year old. As an aside, making fun of the names used by Bunnahabhain for their expressions has become a cliché, but I have to admit this is one of the most difficult they have used. On their site they recommend saying it as "oon-ouch" but that does not convey the subtle intonation of the Gaelic. Our attempts at pronunciation must sound hilarious to them! “Very Good” : 85/100 (4 stars)

Nose: Light, generic sweet cereal, fruit and floral notes. There’s not much going on but also no glaring faults. There is a touch of rubbery low-grade cask aroma and an alcohol nip, but that’s not unusual in an inexpensive blend. If you add a few drops of water the vanilla blooms and becomes lightly floral. Palate: The arrival is soft and dominated by simple alcohol sweetness. There are subdued flavours of cereal, malt, fruit and a hint of smoke but it’s all very low-key and the sweetness of industrial grain whisky which is the foundation is never far away. There is a slightly hard metallic note also coming from the grain whisky, but it’s not horrible, just noticeable on the later palate. The texture is neutral. Finish: Short. The palate quickly dissipates leaving virtually no aftertaste. I have a weakness for whisky and Coke. It’s not that I like to dilute my whisky with Coke, but that I enjoy my Coke with added flavouring (some people like vanilla Coke, some like cherry Coke … I like whisky Coke). For this purpose I always have at least one bottle of supermarket-grade blended scotch in the drinks cabinet, and there are a couple of dozen brands I buy in rotation, one of which is Bells. There is a characteristic mild earthy smoke note to it that I don’t notice in many other affordable blends. It reminds me of what Teacher’s Highland Cream was like in the 1990s. Bell’s is one of the most affordable "distilled, blended and bottled in Scotland" blended scotches you can buy. It has no pretention to being a sipping whisky (although you can drink it neat without injury) and it is often dismissed by enthusiasts, but there are many worse whiskies you can buy at around that price. If you are on a tight budget Bell’s is an acceptable option, but plan to drink it over ice and with Coke, dry ginger ale or tonic water. “Adequate” : 73/100 (2.25 stars)

“Bunnahabhain & Friends” tasting at The Oak Barrel, Sydney, 15 June 2022. Whisky #4 Nose: Golden syrup, figs, prunes, liquorice, rum, leather, oak, soy sauce and some noticeable ethanol. It’s a wall of strongly sherry-cask driven aomas. Palate: After the intense nose, the palate has a surprisingly soft and gentle entry with dried fruits, malt extract, dark chocolate, salted mixed nuts, caramel, and espresso. The development starts suddenly with a hit of alcohol that is closely followed by emerging pepper and spice notes, tobacco, dark chocolate and bitter black coffee. The texture is dense and has an almost chewy quality. Finish: Medium/long. Dried fruits, coffee beans, dark chocolate, oak tannin. The texture becomes creamy in the aftertaste. This is a big whisky intended to appeal to lovers of intense sherry flavours at higher proof. Not that there is anything wrong with that, but that’s what it is. The profile is not particularly complex, but what is there is delivered at full volume and it does have balance, albeit a balance of heavy components. This is not just the regular 12 year old at higher proof. The casking is different and this expression contains noticeably more sherry (probably mainly oloroso but I would not be surprised if things have been spiced up by the addition of some PX). I diluted my tasting down to what I estimated was 46% and it tasted similar but different to the regular 12 year old, which is sweeter and shows more vanilla and lighter fruit. I enjoyed it equally both neat and diluted. I think, however that it would be fair to say that this whisky is how most enthusiasts (including me) would think the 12 year old *should* taste at cask strength. This all might sound like I did not like the dram but that’s not the case at all – I just don’t think it deserves the level of hype it has been receiving. It’s an agreeable whisky, but not outstanding. I almost bought a bottle. Is it twice as good as the regular 12? No. However it is more intense and has a larger personality. Is it worth almost twice the price? Yes, if the bold profile sounds like the sort of thing you enjoy and you like the 12 year old to start with then you will most likely find this delicious and consider it good value. I have the Bunnahabhain 12 and Stiùireadair expressions (which I consider different but equal) both at 83/100. This expression is "better" than those, but it does not quite seem like a "4 star" whisky to me. So ... “Good” : 84/100 (3.75 stars)

“Bunnahabhain & Friends” tasting at The Oak Barrel, Sydney, 15 June 2022. Whisky #3 Nose: Substantial aromas of sherry, raisin, nuts, dried mixed citrus peel, plums, figs and cinnamon. An elegant and mature oak fragrance as of old waxed oak furniture fills in all the spare corners and there is a very faint waft of coal or wood smoke. I noted more sandalwood and lighter fruit aromas than in previous batches. A few drops of water do no harm but are not required. Palate: The arrival is soft and measured but builds to become a commanding presence with very fine texture. Mixed stewed fruit, some well-contained baking spices, chocolate, salted caramel and tobacco. The spice notes become a little warmer over time and black pepper and hot cinnamon are apparent, but the profile never loses balance. The texture becomes chewier as tannins come into play but once again balance is maintained by the presence of some foundation dark sugar. Finish: Medium/long. Dark fruit, leather and chocolate are the lingering tastes. One of my favourite whiskies. I loved it immediately on first tasting it many years ago, but it wasn’t until @Soba45 sent me a tasting sample in 2020 that I became reacquainted with it and remembered what I had been missing. That particular sample (probably from a 2017 or 2018 batch) was arguably the best the whisky has ever been, and I enthusiastically rated it at 5 stars here [note: my review of it appears below]. This current tasting is of a late 2021 batch and although it is still impressive, in comparison to batches from a few years ago it is a little lacking in refinement. Nevertheless, for me it was still the second-best thing we tasted on the night, far eclipsing the other three Bunnahabhains on the card. All those (the 2022 Feis Ile Abhainn Araig, the 12 year old cask strength and the Aonadh 10 year old) exhibited obvious youthful harshness and tasting this superior whisky was a blessed relief. The price is unfortunately starting to climb but it remains a must-taste dram for any enthusiast. “Very Good” : 87/100 (4.25 stars) ----------------------------------------------------------- Original Distiller reviewed, posted April 24, 2020 Nose: A welcoming, enfolding cloak of sherry and oak wraps around you as you deeply inhale the aromas of a faultless Christmas cake. Dark malt, dried fruit and sweet roasted nuts (hazelnut and toasted almond) with rich leather aromas. There's a sly note of lemon zest in the background as well as a reminiscence of smoke and waxed furniture, but it's not like a typical "smoky" whisky. This is like sitting in front of a roaring fire on a cold night where 99% of the fumes are combusting and just a skerrick of smoke escapes to your nostrils. As it continues to unfold minty notes and caramel toffee emerge. [The dry-glass aroma is fruitcake with a hint of charcoal]. Palate: The taste of liquified oloroso sherry cask, chocolate toffee, sweet tobacco and fruitcake. Deep, resounding and malty with a texture that is creamy, chewy and perfectly balanced between sweetness and astringincy. It arrives dry and spicy but sweet fruity notes, vanilla and warming muscovado sugar instantly spring forth to provide equilibrium. There is the tiniest hint of salt and it coats the mouth with ecstasy. Finish: Very long. The warming, dense sweet malt character subsides slowly into a sweet oak aftertaste. This is a magnificently expressive whisky. It's some years since I last tasted it - why have I waited so long? The progression from the malty arrival through to the oaky aftertaste is a joy every time. The nose is similar to old Glenfarclas but the palate is less austere. This whisky fairly flings itself out of the glencairn into your face with joie de vivre. There's very little more to say. It really is a desert island dram and you need to taste this whisky at least once on your journey (and you may well decide not to continue but just settle down with an 18 year old Bunny - ahem). It's one of those excellent drams that always leaves you thinking "why do I bother drinking anything else?". Many thanks to @Soba45 for sending me the tasting sample, and reminding me of what I'd forgotten. I've just this moment tried to order a bottle but alas, there is none in the country. Please Bunnahabhain, send us another allocation. "Outstanding" : 90/100 (5 stars) [AUD$250 in 2020] -----------------------------------------------------------

“Bunnahabhain & Friends” tasting at The Oak Barrel, Sydney, 15 June 2022. Whisky #2 Nose: Leafy, like dry autumn leaves. Sherry, cocoa powder. The nose has initial impact but is surprisingly shy and lacks complexity. Water does the nose no favours. Palate: Big, grippy arrival. Raisins, walnuts, peanut skins, dark hard toffee, bitter chocolate, tobacco leaf, a touch of ash, intense spice, liquorice, leather, and raw alcohol. Water lengthens the palate but does not significantly change it. Finish: Medium/long. Spicy/sour. Cocoa, nuts and oak. Dry and astringent. I would never in a million years have pegged this as a PX finished whisky. It’s sherried, for sure, but the profile shows more of an oloroso influence and not one that is derived from the best quality casks. The nose and palate are dry and share walnut, resin and dried fig characteristics. The palate is a little “dirty”, but not in a good way, and there is a naked ethanol presence in both nose and palate - you occasionally get a waft or taste of straight ethanol cutting through. The profile also lacks juiciness or light, fresh fruit. On the whole this whisky tastes as if it is old before its time, but not mature. This was not available for purchase on the night, but when stocks come in it will probably be around $200, and I would not pay that much. “Good (just)” : 83/100 (3.5 stars)

“Bunnahabhain & Friends” tasting at The Oak Barrel, Sydney, 15 June 2022. Whisky #1 Nose: Fragrant malt and cereal, vanilla, light honey. After adding a few drops of water and allowing it to develop in the glass I noticed light aromas of rose-hip and lemongrass tea, chocolate, candyfloss and bubblegum. Adding just a couple of drops of water initially kills the nose stone dead, but it eventually reasserts itself in a slightly sweeter form. Palate: Sweet arrival with gristy cereal and white grapes. The cereal notes expand into grassy herbal flavours, lemon drops and a strong, spicy ginger hit. The palate turns to a dry profile in the later development with a stronger herbal quality emerging. The texture is good, but a little thin and austere. Finish: Medium/short. The cereal persists into the aftertaste which becomes hot and a fraction sour. A very crisp, clean presentation highlighting grain and bourbon casks. Both the nose and palate focus on grassy cereal aromas. The finish is a little short and the overall profile lacks complexity. It’s a good whisky, but it does not taste 18 years old. I first had this as a sample a couple of years ago, and then again last year at a virtual on-line tasting. This third tasting last night was substantially the same, although I thought the honeyed notes had I detected in the earlier batches were lacking. It has drifted in a more citrus direction over time. A good whisky – if it was a 12 year old and sold at half the price I would be highly impressed, but as an 18 year old it does not convince me. I’ve seen this priced from $175-200 but after 3 tastings I’m still not interested in buying a bottle, even at the lowest price. I’m dropping my rating just a little this time. “Good” : 83/100 (3.5 stars) ------------------------------------------------------- [Review from April 29, 2020] Nose: Spiced honey with vast quantities of malt extract, grassy cereal notes, orchard fruits and a hint of vanilla. Spiky at first but gaining sweetness as it opens. Adding a tiny drop of water expands the honey considerably. Palate: A malty, leathery and oily arrival that is lightened by floral honey notes and simultaneously lit up by cheeky ginger spice. Cereal flavours thunder forth in the development - bread, madeira cake, fruit muffins, buttered crumpets with orange marmalade and a dusting of nutmeg. There are some very agreeable mild chocolate and nutty tones as well. Finish: Medium. Sweet cereal flavours that trail into pleasantly dry tannic notes followed by a malty aftertaste. Deanston is a distillery that didn't give me a good initial impression, but as I'm tasting more of their expressions I'm starting to warm to them. My first taste was a post-tour flight at the distillery a few years ago and maybe it just wasn't the right moment. The core range left me with the feeling that they have a hard, sharp distillate that is not being matured as well as it might. Perhaps it's just the greater age of this particular expression, and/or maybe a better quality of casks, but I'm definitely on board with this crisp and excellently clean malt-bomb. Some people have criticized the nose as being shy but for me it was the best part of the experience (however you need to give it some time). The palate is a hair's breadth lower in quality but a drop of water brings it up to scratch and unleashes considerable honeyed sweetness. It also adds some spice to the finish, which is a comfortable addition. I'd definitely say that this whisky is not merely improved by watering, it actively needs it to become really enjoyable and achieve balance. Deanston is not just geographically a highland whisky, it is absolutely of that broad style. This expression reminds me a little of Highland Park (particularly once it is watered) but that's the problem as well. It is a finely crafted piece of work for sure but over here this costs just about the same as Highland Park 18 and I for one would not buy it in preference. Tasted from a 30ml sampler. "Good" : 84/100 (3.75 stars) [AUD$185.0 per Bottle in 2020]

Nose: Cointreau, clove, allspice, cinnamon, dill seed, mint, green apple, honey, vanilla bean, very faint oak. Fruity, warm, clean and soft with excellent balance. Palate: Sweet, spicy and very approachable. The palate is precisely in line with the nose with clove, allspice, cinnamon, orange, menthol and apple all immediately apparent. The development does not bring a great deal more forward, but there is cherry tart, butterscotch muffin and caramel sauce, grilled banana and some drying oak tannin. The texture is good. Finish: Medium/short. Spicy/sweet notes and stewed peaches. The profile of this rye is very close to that of the New Riff Bottled in Bond Bourbon that I just reviewed - they are almost mirror images. This is very much a soft young rye with bourbon highlights, while the other expression is a soft young bourbon with rye highlights. Both whiskies are delightful and like the bourbon this is not improved by dilution and I’d recommend it neat. I did not try it over ice but I imagine it would be addictively easy to drink that way. Sadly, however, this has the same issue locally as the bourbon, being priced at a point that is simply prohibitive. Tasted from a 30ml sample. “Good” : 84/100 (3.75 stars)

Nose: Fragrant wood, vanilla ice cream, caramel coated popcorn (maybe even butterscotch?), cherry, soft cinnamon, ginger, clove and fennel seed notes. A very pleasant nose. A drop of water expands the woody notes and makes the nose a little "planky". Palate: Sweet buttery cereal, vanilla, caramel sauce, subtle menthol and caraway spices. The palate is aligned closely with the nose. Cola and rye spice notes come forward in the development together with a pinch of black pepper. Mild sourness develops towards the finish, but it’s not unpleasant. The alcohol is very well contained and this is not a hot profile. It swims well and a dash of water does not hurt, but it does not improve anything either. Finish: Medium/short. The sour note from the late development modulates into a soft tannin-influenced aftertaste. The oak aroma is not that of mature casks, but neither is it like fresh-sawn lumber. It has a fragrant, fresh aroma with sandalwood and maple notes. Rye is noticeable on the nose but it is primarily soft and mildly fragrant. The palate is good neat and does not require water, and I'd recommend taking this one neat as water slightly spoils the nose. The attack is sweet and measured and I did not notice excessive ethanol or spice heat. The finish is not particularly long, but it fades out gracefully and leaves me wanting another pour. A good bourbon that is very much of the style I prefer. I would be happy to keep a bottle of this in the cabinet as my everyday bourbon apart from one thing – the absurdly high asking price in Australia. I’ll pay that sort of money for 4 star whisky, but not for 3 star bourbon. Tasted from a 30ml sample. “Good” : 83/100 (3.5 stars)