Tastes
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Waterford Peated Woodbrook
Single Malt — Ireland
Reviewed November 29, 2023 (edited January 10, 2024)Waterford Tasting, The Oak Barrel, Sydney, November 27th 2023, Whisky #6 Nose: A strong, clear aroma of almost greasy, oily peat smoke. Chocolate, roasted nuts, coffee and underneath it all (instead of being in the forefront as usual with Waterford) there is the signature fragrant white-bread and gristy cereal distillate. Palate: Big, oily and mouth-coating smoky arrival. Espresso, chicory, chocolate, herbs, and a touch of brine show up in the later palate. Finish: Long. Smoked cereal, fruit and berry flavours that slowly fade into a distant echo. A satisfying and very well integrated peated whisky. At 74ppm this is the most heavily peated whisky that Waterford has yet released, and the character of the peating is more like an Islay whisky than anything they have done before. In fact, this is somewhat reminiscent of Port Charlotte Heavily Peated. Distilled in 2019 and bottled in mid 2023, this is technically 3 years old. Maturation was approximately 1/3 virgin US and French oak, 1/3 first-fill ex-bourbon barrel and 1/3 vin doux naturel cask so this shows more cask-influence than is typical for Waterford, with sweet vanilla and berry notes being contributed. The fact that this is barely noticeable is testament to the excellent integration with the peat smoke. As with the Peated Fenniscourt I tasted prior to this expression, there were no rubbery, sulphurous aromas or off-notes on the palate whatsoever, either neat or when watered. “Very Good” : 85/100 (4 stars) -
Waterford Peated Fenniscourt 1.1
Single Malt — Ireland
Reviewed November 29, 2023 (edited February 3, 2024)Waterford Tasting, The Oak Barrel, Sydney, November 27th 2023, Whisky #5 Nose: Crisp, fresh barley grist, warm herb bread, goat’s cheese, feta, a light cloak of herbal, earthy peat (since writing this I’ve looked at other reviews and many mention rubber notes, but I did not get any hint at all of thiols or sulphides. In fact, I particularly noted their absence). Palate: Sweet and cereal in the arrival with excellent oiliness. Berries and orchard fruits in the background of the later palate and an overall mild, dry smoke presence. It’s an elegant, restrained and relaxed style of peating that I did not expect from a nominal 38ppm level. Finish: Medium/long. Fresh bread, a dusting of pepper. The peat smoke eases gradually into the aftertaste with a gentle return to sweetness. Totally unlike any Islay peated whisky, and not very similar to peated whisky from any other part of Scotland either, but neither is this like any peated Irish whiskey I’ve had. It’s very much its own thing and the more you explore it the more it reveals its Waterford distillate foundation with clean, perfectly produced malted barley distillate at the heart of proceedings. This was part of the Arcadian Series, distilled in 2018 and bottled in 2022 but technically just 3 years of age. Maturation was in virgin American and French oak, with a smaller component aged in vin doux naturel casks. In many ways, this whisky is a peated expression of Waterford’s Knockroe Edition 1.1. A very impressive whisky that exemplifies how delightful young peated whisky can be, and how dull and lifeless many products from the major distilleries have become regardless of (and maybe even because of) greater age. I loved it and bought a bottle on the night. “Very Good” : 86/100 (4 stars)169.0 AUD per Bottle -
Waterford Killone Single Farm Origin
Single Malt — Ireland
Reviewed November 29, 2023 (edited January 10, 2024)Waterford Tasting, The Oak Barrel, Sydney, November 27th 2023, Whisky #3 Nose: Clean, crisp barley aromas with buttery weight. There is a slight fruity fragrance of pears and apples and the same bready, yeasty notes I get on all Waterford whiskies. As is typical for Waterford the cask influence is subtle and elegant to the point of being almost undetectable. Palate: The arrival is all about creamy barley flavours and these persist through the palate with just a hint of stone-fruits and orchard fruits appearing later. The texture is oily, unctious and satisfying. Like other Waterford whiskies there is a chalky, peppery quality, but it is very reserved and gentle. Finish: Medium/long. Creamy cereals, baked rolls. This single-farm expression was distilled in 2018 and bottled in 2023 as a special release for the distillery’s “Growers Gathering”, a celebration event held for their growers and suppliers. Maturation was in virgin American and French oak. Only 600 bottles were made and none was available for export. The tasting event I attended in Sydney on November 27th was hosted by Mark Reynier, the owner of Waterford, as part of an Australian visit so I assume a few bottles were shipped here specifically for the tastings, or were perhaps donated by local collectors. It’s a very good whisky that stands as a fine example of what Waterford is all about – purity, integrity of production and innovation. It was my second favourite dram of the evening, and I rated it one percentage point less than Knockroe Edition 1.1. I rated that one higher as I felt that it had just a fraction more complexity and interest from the wine cask contribution. “Very Good” : 87/100 (4.25 stars) -
Waterford Knockroe Edition 1.1
Single Malt — Ireland
Reviewed November 27, 2023 (edited January 10, 2024)Waterford Tasting, The Oak Barrel, Sydney, November 27th 2023, Whisky #2 Nose: A full-bodied but crisp and clean expression of barley. Fragrant, but not simply fruity nor floral – it’s a cereal fragrance with just a tiny hint of stone-fruit. There is also a bready note as of baking white bread rolls and a savory, umami quality like sliced mushrooms in butter sauce. There is no sign of overt cask influence. Palate: The arrival is beautifully textured, being creamy and velvety, and this smooth, oily richness persists right through to the aftertaste. I noted freshly milled cereal and fresh but very reserved stone fruits (nectarines and apricots). There is a chalky flavour like goat’s cheese and some white pepper but again these are restrained aspects and they act as spice for the cereal rather than being big flavours that stand out. The mouthfeel is simply scrumptious. Finish: Medium/long. Creamy oatmeal, fresh bread with butter and a hint of lemon. The finish is better described as “slow” rather than long. It has persistence, but not because of intensity, it is instead easy, smooth and languid. This single-farm expression was distilled in 2016 and bottled in 2020 as an exclusive release for the South African market. Somehow a few bottles made their way to Australia, I think through club releases, and one bottle was opened for the tasting. Maturation was in virgin American and French oak (as is the case for all Waterford whiskies) but also vin doux natural wine casks. It’s a lovely whisky with exquisite integration and it's the best Waterford I’ve tasted so far. For me it stood above all the others on the night due to its exceptionally fine texture and the restrained hint of sweetness that was no doubt due to the sweet wine casks. I found it very appealing and would have bought a bottle in a heartbeat, but sadly none were available. “Excellent” : 88/100 (4.5 stars)170.0 AUD per Bottle -
Singleton of Dufftown 12 Year
Single Malt — Speyside, Scotland
Reviewed November 24, 2023 (edited February 14, 2024)Nose: Apples, pears, vanilla, honey, butter, diluted malt extract. Palate: Sweet arrival, again all on orchard fruits and honey. The development and later palate sees a lot of strong, hot flavours appearing. Initially white pepper, then chili, then finally hot ginger, and all these facets are sitting above a raw alcohol prickle. The texture is silky but there is also a harsh edge. Finish: Short. Barley sugar fading to … nothing. I bought this about 6 months ago but have only just opened it. The code is L2324DM003 so this is almost certainly a 2022 bottling. I have rarely tasted a Singleton whisky that I’ve liked, and I don’t think I’ve ever tasted a good whisky from the Dufftown Distillery. Their distillate is hard, industrial and rough – all characteristics showcased in this expression. It starts off very well on the nose, with a profile that is narrow and simple, but good. Orchard fruits, malted cereal and pleasant ex-bourbon barrel vanilla and butter. It’s a crisp summery sort of nose that draws you back for more. The palate begins in the same manner but then a good deal of hot tannic spice intrudes and derails the experience. The finish is very short, with barely any aftertaste at all apart from a little sourness. The bottle information says ex-PX sherry seasoned barrels were partly used for the maturation, and I’m guessing that is where some of the heat derives. They must have been either the lowest grade of seasoned casks or else old multi-refill because all they contributed was tannin. The best way to consume this is with lots of cola soft drink and ice, which highlights the ginger notes on the palate in a very positive way. I would not recommend it as a neat dram – there are affordable blends that are better than this. “Adequate” : 73/100 (2.25 stars)65.0 AUD per Bottle -
Turquoise Bay Mauritius Amber Rum
Gold Rum — Mauritius
Reviewed November 21, 2023 (edited January 10, 2024)Nose: Demerara sugar, maple syrup, vanilla, honey, oak cask, grilled pineapple, mango, peach, coconut, crushed sugar cane. It’s a sweet nose but not overpowering. Palate: Sweet, fruity, grassy and herbal on the arrival. It’s very agricole-like to start with but in the mid-palate it takes a dive towards molasses sweetness with tropical fruits, crème caramel, a little spice and vanilla appearing. It's an interesting and well managed mélange. Finish: Short. Sweet, a little white pepper and hot spices but fading quickly into white sugar. This is a pleasant and very laid-back, sensuous rum with a combination character that teams agricole hogo and crisp cane sugars with luscious tropical fruits and dark syrup. Altogether it makes for a profile that I’d call “languid”. It’s luxurious like a hyper-dosaged Venezualian rum but without the cloying intensity, and the edge of its clean agricole facet gives it interest. I’m enjoying this in many ways – neat, over ice with a slice of orange or lime, in pina coladas, and with dry ginger ale. It skirts the boundary of being over-sweet but does not quite cross over. Every time I taste this I visualize myself lazing in a hammock by a turquoise sea. There are worse day dreams. “Good” : 83/100 (3.5 stars)88.0 AUD per Bottle -
Nose: Earth, herbs, green vegetables, cereal, ethanol, citrus oil. Palate: Sweet arrival, green vegetables but with an astringent edge. The presence of ethanol is never far away but it is cloaked in vegetal, mineral and herbal flavours. The texture is neutral, neither oily nor thin, and there is a hint of salt. Finish: Medium/short. Funky, herbal cereals that fade rapidly into a simple white pepper aftertaste that swings between sweet, sour and briny. There is a little wet cardboard as well. Fenjiu is made by the Xinghuacun Fenjiu Distillery in the northern province of Shanxi (bottles also show the name in the older Anglicised form of "Fen Chiew"). This is a colourless, transparent spirit, not black. Fen Jiu Black is a standard core range brand, like Johnnie Walker Black. This is the first light-aroma style baijiu I have tried, and I’m missing the intense fruit esters you get in strong-aroma baijiu. This is crisp and clean and there is quite a lot going on, and while there is a family resemblance to the more pungent styles this is much closer to an herbal/vegetal flavoured vodka. The nose is vaguely similar to some agave spirits, but more funky and complicated, and it also reminds me of some clairin and rhums agricole. Its not that the aromas or flavours of those spirits are similar, but they all share an earthy, hogo quality that is present in each case (I think) from wild yeasts and partial bacterial fermentation. It’s also vaguely reminiscent of shochu (but that is more delicate) and also sake (but that is way more elegant). This has an attractive quality and its lower congener profile would probably make it interesting in cocktails, but don’t ask me what ingredients you would put with it - I imagine this would be very hard to combine with western mixers. Maybe fruit juices? I’ve only tried it neat at room temperature so far but the label suggests either over ice or slightly warmed as alternatives … on to further experimentation. ------------------------------------------------ Update 15 January 2024 Having just finished off this bottle I have to say it is one of my less favourite baijiu expressions so far. Familiarity did not breed either contempt or love - it was just the same every time until I was eventually glad to see the bottle killed off. Using it chilled over rocks with pineapple juice and a slice of orange was my favourite way to take it, which may make purists shiver with disgust. No change to the original rating assessment, and I won't be buying it again. -------------------------------------------------- “Above Average” : 82/100 (3.25)58.0 AUD per Bottle
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The Duppy Share Spiced Rum
Aged Rum — Jamaica and Barbados, Jamaica
Reviewed November 20, 2023 (edited January 10, 2024)Nose: Orange! Grilled pineapple! Ginger, cloves, cinnamon, cardamom. Subtle and breezy. Palate: Sweet arrival, demerara sugar, pineapple chunks, cinnamon, clove, cola, tropical fruit, milk coffee. The texture is not at all heavy, and very pleasant. Finish: Medium: Very gentle spices and tropical fruits. Duppy Share is an English rum brand which has recently appeared in the Australian market. It is widely available in supermarkets in the UK but don’t let that fool you – this is not a cheap bargain basement spirit. There are currently four expressions available in their range and all are sourced from Jamaican and/or Bajan distilleries, notably Worthy Park and Foursquare. This “Spiced Caribbean Spirit” is a very mildly spiced white "rum" (at 37% abv it can't be called rum) that is unlike almost every other spiced rum I’ve tasted, which is a good thing because most are disgusting concoctions that are unfit for human consumption. The exception is Plantation Stiggins' Fancy Pineapple Rum so it probably comes as no surprise, given my tasting notes above, that this bears a similarity to that spirit. It's like "Stiggings' Lite". It has a satisfyingly dry profile with the emphasis on citrus and mild spice and it is not at all heavy handed or over-sweetened. In some ways the nose is almost like that of a gin. My only problem with this is what to do with it. Yes you could drink it neat, or in cocktails or long drinks, but as acceptable as it would be there is an endless list of other things I would prefer to drink in those contexts. Of the four available Duppy Share products, this is the only one I don’t think I’ll be buying. Not because it is bad, but because I just don’t need it. “Good” : 83/100 (3.5 stars)62.0 AUD per Bottle -
Nose: Oak cask, mild hogo, dried dates and figs, tobacco, leather, caramel, vanilla, toasted coconut, dark cherries, dried cranberries and raisins. On the dry glass you notice the same mango and strawberry notes you get in the Duppy White rum. Palate: A fine, dry, fruity arrival that segues seamlessly into a sweeter and more fresh-fruit focused development. This is dangerously easy stuff to quaff! Some light baking spices, coconut, golden syrup, vanilla and sweet cinnamon. The texture is pleasantly mouth-coating but not at all heavy. Finish: Medium: Lightly spiced dark fruits that linger. Christmas pudding. Duppy Share is an English rum brand which has recently appeared in the Australian market. It is widely available in supermarkets in the UK but don’t let that fool you – this is not a cheap bargain basement spirit. There are currently four expressions available in their range and all are sourced from Jamaican and/or Bajan distilleries, notably Worthy Park and Foursquare. This “XO Caribbean Rum” is a blending of aged dark rums from Barbados, mainly from the Foursquare distillery (which produces Doorly's). The components are apparently 5, 8 and 12 years old and it has a very small amount of sugar dosage, but you can hardly notice it. Like the two Duppy Share rums I’ve reviewed previously this is absurdly easy to drink and enjoy neat. It also works over ice or in long drinks, but it’s a pity to use such a nice rum in any context where its personality is diluted. In many ways it reminds me of a slightly lighter version of the Doorly’s XO. Very good rum and well worth a try. It is more expensive than the other Duppy Share bottlings and is priced at a point where there is solid competition. Still, this stands up well in comparison and I'm giving it the same rating I gave their "Aged Caribbean" rum - both are equally good but have slightly different profiles. “Good” : 84/100 (3.75 stars)90.0 AUD per Bottle
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The Duppy Share Rum
Aged Rum — Multiple Countries
Reviewed November 20, 2023 (edited January 10, 2024)Nose: Pine needles, crushed sugar cane (a bit like fresh-cut grass), a sprinkle of white pepper and menthol, cinnamon, nutmeg, oak wood, leather, dried fruit. Over time as the alcohol dissipates you get a light aroma of tobacco. Palate: Semi-sweet arrival with herbal and fruit notes, light spices, plantain, apricot, and dried dates. A host of mild baking spice arrives in the development and the texture is creamy, buttery and very satisfying without being even slightly sugary. Formidable. Finish: Medium: Spiced fruit cake trailing into a dry aftertaste. Very Good. Duppy Share is an English rum brand which has recently appeared in the Australian market. It is widely available in supermarkets in the UK but don’t let that fool you – this is not a cheap bargain basement spirit. There are currently four expressions available in their range and all are sourced from Jamaican and/or Bajan distilleries, notably Worthy Park and Foursquare. This “Aged Caribbean Rum” was their initial product and it is a very pleasant lightly-aged gold rum. It has no added sugar and is a million miles away from the heavy, syrupy personality of Diplomatico or Zacapa. There is a bit of Worthy Park pot-still hogo in this, but it is light and breezy as well which is coming from column still Foursquare distillate. Like the Duppy White I just reviewed, this is eminently sippable neat or over ice, and it works very well indeed in cocktails and long drinks. Is it as good as well-regarded Foursquare rums like Doorly’s 12, or Worthy Park 100% pot-distilled expressions? No, but it’s not far short and I’m rating it as just one percentage point down from Doorly’s 12. Considering the very reasonable price that makes it a bargain, and a solid recommendation. This is definitely one we will be keeping on rotation. “Good” : 84/100 (3.75 stars)62.0 AUD per Bottle
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