Tastes

A fresh and elegant floral note of jasmine flowers, lightly dipped in rosewater plays hide and seek with notes of candy apple, caramel, golden raisins and winter spices. Unfortunately, the palate does not carry over from the remarkable nose. At 43% ABV, that first sip feels strangely hot and harsh. The oloroso sherry cask finish does impart an earthy musty, dry sweetness, but for the most part it stays hidden behind a tarty, oak-forward bitterness. Ringed by a circle of salt, the mid palate feels empty, or hollow, of any discernible flavours. The oak wood bitter note re-appears at the back to finally carry on through to a lingering, oily finish, accompanied by faint cinnamon and nutmeg spices. Overall, for its price, I did appreciate this dram. Having said that, I couldn't help but feel let down by the palate, especially after that first experience on the nose. PS: Adding water reduces the harshness, mollifies the bitterness and brings up heretofore hidden almonds.

Dare I say the nose brings to mind a tall glass of hot Irish Coffee? No, that would be too obvious, not to mention leaning on the inappropriate, given that the Dalmore distillery lies in the Scottish Highland. Instead, I'll go with an impression of a tall glass of hot Moccaccino coffee served with a splash of Cointreau. The oily mouthfeel presents velvety notes of ripe red apples, apricots, black cherries and melted brown sugar. Honeyed walnuts make an appearance towards the back end of the palate, dusted with vanilla and cinnamon. The nutty sweet finish is surprisingly on the shorter side for such an oily introduction to the palate. Overall, I'd give this dram a 3.5, deduct a 1/2 point for insisting on the use of artificial colouring and add a 1/4 point for bottle design.

The master blender's selection of Talisker, Caol Ila, Cragganmore and Linkwood brings together four virtuoso players to deliver a well-coordinated musical quartet performance, full of harmonies and hidden depths. On the nose, the ocean brine and smoky malted barley of the Islanders juxtaposes in dramatic fashion the floral and dark fruit, honey, cinnamon and vanilla notes of the Speysiders. The palate offers strong, yet mellowed out flavours, delicate and rich at the same time. Elegant peat encompasses salty caramel, savoury notes infuse dark sweet fruit. Cinnamon and nutmeg precede waxy walnuts, which in turn lead into a long finish that feels oily yet at other times light and dry. Overall, this re-released 15-year old, blended malt serves as testament to the skills of the master blender. Within Johnnie Walker's core lineup of whiskies, the Green easily competes with the Blue for the top spot position. Suggestion #1: other than weakening it, adding water does nothing to this dram. Suggestion #2: finish the dram and let the glass sit for 15 minutes then go back and smell it - see if you can't pick out individual notes from the constituent single malts.

Off the cuff, name three heavy-hitting Islay whiskies - more often than not, the list would include the 'bestselling' Laphroaig 10, the 'market darling' Lagavulin 16 and the Ardbeg 10 of that 'cultlike following'. It is a testament to the allure of whisky that the three distilleries are separated only by a 25-minute brisk walk, were founded between 1815-16, are using the same three ingredients - malted barley, water and yeast, produce peated, single malt Scotch, and still they're able to come up with such varied offerings. Of the three, Laphroaig 10 is the one that doesn't really try to make you like it. Soon as this golden-hued whisky is poured into a glass, it attacks your senses. Richard Paterson, he of the Dalmore fame, likes to greet a new dram with three quick glass-rim-to-the-nose "Hello, how are you?"s. I wouldn't do it with this one; a slow lift towards the nose is appropriate, starting to breathe it in at around a hand's span away. The label may say 40% ABV (or 43% in some countries), but the brine, the smoke, the iodine and the seaweed notes are strong with this one. Now that it's gained your respect, the first sip continues from where the nose left it; salt, a bit more salt, some peat followed by some more peat, seaweed and bitter iodine to complete the set; thankfully, the latter two flavours are not as big as you might've expected - conversely, had they been missing, it wouldn't taste like Laphroaig. They say whisky should sit a minute for each year of maturation before nosing/sipping. Give this one 15 minutes instead, and you'll discover pears coated in vanilla extract on the nose, fruity sweetness and savoury flavours on the palate and long lasting peppery oak wood notes during the light finish. Laphroaig 10 - you'll either like it a lot or never want to taste it again. There's no middle road.

Nose: First out of the glass is the aromatic but delicate smoke. With it arrive elegant floral perfumes and green fruit notes. You're left with an impression of having just opened a pouch of aromatic pipe tobacco potpourri. Palate: The delicate peat carries a taste of salted toffee, green apples and pears; barley, vanilla and herbal honey, whilst hidden at first behind the peat, eventually make an appearance to the patient palate. The floral perfumes turn into herbal impressions of green tea and heather. For a peated malt, the finish is short and light, courtesy of the delicate peat and lack of heavy oils. A tickle of effervescent spearmint right at the end.

Cardhu 12 is very much a typical Speysider, said to be used as the base for the Johnnie Walker blend. The nose is nicely balanced between fruity and floral notes; green apples, pears, apple blossoms, floral honey and a touch of green banana flesh. The palate is all about the delicate sweetness: red apples, honey, cherries, a sprinkling of fine walnut shards mixed with cinnamon. The distiller's tasting notes mention smoke; I'd counter that with the raising of an eyebrow. The finish is short but pleasant, sweet yet refreshing, leaves you looking forward to your next sip. Overall, this dram is so well rounded and delicate, it would be the excellent starter in a flight of whisky.

Entering a code on the Bruichladdich website, found at the back of the Classic Laddie bottle, reveals that this dram was bottled in 2017 and is the single malt, vatted result of "53 casks, 5 vintages, 2 barley types and 11 cask types". It is also non-chill filtered and uncoloured. It is also a grand whisky. At 50% ABV, the nose, palate and finish all feel weighty, full and rich. The perceived depth on the nose and palate of this dram is fascinating, the finish long and exceptional. Ripe plums, red apples and black cherries, malted barley, burnt vanilla, bitter dry oak notes to counterbalance the heavy oil feel, a touch of cinnamon and nutmeg, and the smell and taste of the ocean, all consistently appear throughout the two senses. Adding water opens up the dram, makes it even more accessible to the senses, reveals heretofore hidden waxy walnut and toasted cereal notes. With a single stroke, the Bruichladdich distillery have managed to make the case for NAS bottlings, full disclosure of information and pure, unadulterated innovation.

Talisker 10 is a worthy representative of the quintessential smoky, briny Scotch whisky. On the nose, a plateful of the full Scottish breakfast. Smoky, savoury, tangy, mouth watering aromas. The mouthfeel is full, uplifting and strong, dominated by the peat smoke and isle of Skye brine; at the same time, a sweet yet refined dark fruit sweetness infused with peppermint darts across the tongue. Whilst not oily, the finish is long and satisfying, driven on by the 45.8% ABV. Black pepper and spices come to the fore and slowly fade away, awaiting your next languorous sip. A dram definitely worth taking your time with!

--- One of two reviews. This one is at neck pour --- The Matsui is a very pale whisky with a light floral nose, loaded with sour notes. A hint of the oak wood in the background, however the promise of sandalwood and Japanese herbal incense, typical of a mizunara maturation, is all but absent Palate: This is a young whisky, evidenced by spikes of hot pepper and overwhelming bitter spices. Missing are the mellow coconut and rich spice notes typically to be found in a longer mizunara maturation period. The finish, whilst short, doesn’t let up; more hot pepper and bitter oak notes, ending in a taste of dry paper. Overall, an interesting dram to sample as it is atypical of Japanese single malts. Could do with another 10 plus years in the barrel.

Nose: Floral, heather and hay, a faint whiff of smoke Palate: sweet, musty, sherry cask tannins, nutmeg and a spike of hot pepper. Finish: medium duration, hot, dry and a short cameo appearance of peat. An unremarkable whisky, lacking the island character of some of Jura’s older releases now discontinued.