Ardnamurchan AD/09.22 Cask Strength

Nose (neat): Initially there is almost nothing other than distant notes of oatmeal but after a time there are discernable wisps of peat smoke and a faint buttery, citric and woody aroma reminiscent of an oaky chardonnay. After 5 minutes the nose begins to open and it continues to do so for a long time, displaying maritime minerals and subtle fruit notes, particularly a hint of sweet apple. Don’t even think of hurrying your tasting of this. Nose (watered): Softer and considerably more revealing. The whisky seems to relax almost immediately when water is added and over time it evolves into a richer, denser form with gentle smoke and baked apples on display. A little caramel and vanilla are apparent after a good time to rest in the glass. Palate (neat): The arrival has grippy tannins (but it is not astringent) and focuses on dry maritime peat smoke with background orchard fruits and lemon zest. Mild pepper and paprika spices emerge in the later development and the texture is drying but with a neutral density – it’s certainly not thin. Palate (watered): Considerably sweeter and with greater weight. The peat smoke and tannins meld into a satisfying leathery tobacco note with spicy overtones and the texture becomes silky and creamy. Given time the watered form sees the smoke component of the profile increase. Finish: Medium/long. The peppery qualities of the late palate continue into the aftertaste and the ashy smoke seems to build slightly until it and a crisp briny taste are the last presence. Water sweetens the finish a good deal but allows the final briny presence to survive. This is a subtle and understated whisky that is reminiscent of the annual cask strength Talisker Special Releases. It has a singularly elegant presentation with a purity that borders on austerity when neat, but which changes to a more sweetly enticing form with dilution. It is not complex but very revealing of the raw ingredients and you must give it time to evolve in the glass - otherwise you are just wasting the whisky and your own time. Most critically, it is only when watered that this whisky shows its true form and I cannot recommend adding water strongly enough. To a 1oz/30ml dram add half a teaspoon and wait 5-10 minutes. If there is no haze showing by then add another half teaspoon and wait again, and so on until the mist rises. That’s when it is perfect. Without water this is a cerebrally interesting whisky for sure, but it is only with dilution that it becomes delicious and really compelling. Although this is a young spirit it is a very good one, and I imagine a few more years in the cask will evolve it into something really excellent. This is a whisky enthusiasts’ whisky where the malty heart is the star of the show, as it should be. It’s not blanketed by a wine finish and the smoke presence is subtle and provides foundation while not shouting its presence. Bravo. "Very Good" : 86/100 (4 stars) -------------------------------------------------------- Update 13 May 2023 - Bottle half consumed. I'm very impressed with how this has opened, given a little time and oxygen. Everything is more intense and "full" than initially experienced, and the neat pour has lost a lot of its former tension. It has become buttery, way more smoky and full-flavoured. I'm increasing my rating by a full half point here. This is an excellent single malt whisky, particularly given its comparative youth. Marvellous. Ardnamurchan is doing wonderful things. “Very Good” : 88/100 (4.5 stars)