ScotchingHard
Reviewed
September 19, 2017 (edited September 10, 2018)
Had a vertical Hibiki tasting: Some lovely 1.5oz pours of Harmony ($10), 12 year ($22.50), and the 21 year ($75). I feel like Hibiki 21 is for people who enjoy giving and receiving commemorative pens. They see the big picture of accomplishment, and appreciate effortless precision and technique. I am not one of those people.
So, my big picture perspective, even the top-of-the-shelf 21 year Hibiki loses out to the 12 year Yamazaki. Hibiki, as a brand, is all about harmony, meditation, asking questions without answers, writing haikus, and becoming aware of your nature and nature itself. Fine and dandy. But when I pay $75 for a dram, I want Godzilla.
NOSE: Very floral. Like with Hibiki 12, I’m stuck on cherry blossoms after a light rain. Terroir is just a nice way to say stereotyping. Richer, more buttery, and more nutty than the 12. I do not get sandalwood oils with the other two Hibikis (they promised I would!), but I get some here. It’s very perfumy, like you want to pour some into a Glade plug-in.
PALATE: Soft, flowery, gentle. Full body that’s all fat and no muscle. Oily. Walnut oil, citrus oils. Buttery sweetness with a hint of bitterness, ala Crème brulee with burnt sugar. Lovely apricots and nectarines. Plums and sultanas. It tastes expensive, to be sure.
FINISH: Is that peat? I’ll call it lapsong suchong. Stereotyping again. Layers of various stone fruit notes, essential wood oils, rich fruitcake, slowly fading. This is a whiskey that never fought back, for better and worse.
WITH WATER: Water kills Hibiki. Seriously. It’s like the twist ending to M. Night Shyamalan’s Signs.
VERDICT: To summarize: it’s a blend that appeals to the tastes of the masses, and the pockets of the fortunate few; floral nose; luxurious and balanced palate; a little peat on the finish; does not like water; overpriced and overhyped, in my estimation. Sounds like Johnny Walker Blue? To be fair, Hibiki is 43% ABV and has a little more oomph, especially winning out on the finish. JW King George V is 43%. I’ve never tried King George, and it’s priced in the same ballpark as Hibiki 21 ($450-ish). If I ever make fuck you money, I’ll do a side-by-side between Hibiki 21 and King George. And I’ll have Glenfiddich 12 with a crystal dropper instead of water to zero the palate in between drams and to open up the whiskies.
MARK: 84/100. Minus one star for the price.