DrRHCMadden
Reviewed
December 15, 2022 (edited December 16, 2022)
We arrive at the last of my Kavalan tastings. From ex Bourbon cask strength, to Olorosso Sherry cask, and now the Solist Vinho Barrique cask strength. I believe there is some variability between batches of this single cask offering but from what I can tell it matters for some of the bitter-sweet balance. But ho-hum, a single entry seems reasonable.
Vinho is fully matured in used American oak wine barrels that have been toasted and re-charred to bring out fruity vanilla notes from the whisky and wood overlaid on a delicate background of complex fruitiness. The oak casks are made from American oak that has been seasoned in the open air for at least 24 months. The oak is slow grown that results in a greater release of flavours into the whisky. This reduces the astringent effect of tannins and releases more vanilla spiciness and hints of herbs such as dill and lemon grass. The result is softness and added complexity. The casks have (deliberately) been used to mature both red and white wines which eventually will contribute the background complex fruitiness to Kavalan Solist Vinho. After their use for wine maturation the casks are carefully shaved inside then gently toasted over an oak chip fire for a strictly controlled period of time and temperature. This converts wine residues into a complex mixture of fruit flavours including lime, berry fruits and peaches. Then the casks are charred for a short period of time to release lashings of flavours such as vanilla, ice cream and caramelised sugars.
Blah blah blah, all sounds a bit wanky really. Will this be a case of trying to hard, or does it live up to the hype (of which there is a fair bit).
N: slightly acidic, a juicy apple and pear comes rushing forward first. Beautiful and gentle caramelised sugar, a little chocolate and vanilla gently do their thing with a slight punch of vibrancy from a hit of pepper. Dig in enough and there is some melon and perhaps citrus too. Wood spice, hello. Wonderfully delicate but not shy, refined but with plenty of character. A wonderful start. Worth noting the colour too, ooph this is dark, somewhere between tawny and burnt umber. It looks delicious. A little splash of water unlocks a balsamic flair and a juicy tropical development of the apple/pear that was there to start.
P: oily and slightly drying with an appreciable upfront bite that moves backwards with drying forcefulness. Burnt orange, wood spice, cinnamon, cocoa, sultanas and espresso, coconut(?). Wow, there is a lot going on here, closest thing that springs to mind is a wonderful cake batter that has just had the pantry thrown into it. Complex but balanced, everything knows where it should be. Theres a little nuttiness too. This liquid delivers. Second sip, no where near as drying (thankfully) oaky spices and the mocha like chocolate and espresso are stars now but they bring a touch of vanilla to keep things soft and approachable. This cask is 57.8% ABV, but its not too aggressive and the dash of water is taken well. Brown sugar is put into the mix (seems to be the common Kavalan element?) and a little dark blackberry sweetness comes to play. Delightful stuff.
F: medium-long. Figgy and sticky with a touch more spicy tingle carrying vanilla and cocoa.
OK. Three Kavalans in and we have a winner. This is objectively good sauce. Huge character with flavours for days, clean, well purposed, crisp, and beautifully delivered. There are exciting depths to be had and yet it remains approachable. The 57.8% is forceful without being overbearing and the ability to add water and lengthen this out is great. Heres the rub though, AUD$299.99. Thats mega bucks and on the same price point as Red Breast 21, the 2014 Lagavulin 12, and a clear $100 more than a Highland Park 18, to name just a few. I ask then, is it worth it? Not to me. Very happy to have sampled this though. Well done Kavalan, well done.
[No connection to Taiwan, but pictured here with this dram (because he happened to be out for his evening walk) is Asaphus lepidurus. This chonky critter is an ~470 million year old trilobite from near St. Petersburg in Russia. His body plan was perfectly suited to scurrying over bottom sediments whilst keeping a literal low profile]
Distiller whisky taste #124
299.99
AUD
per
Bottle