Federal Wines and Spirits, located on Beacon Hill in Boston, is known for an exceptional whiskey selection. Last week I was in downtown Boston with just enough time to make a quick first visit before a business dinner.
Beacon Hill is a beautiful area and FWS is located in an attractive stone building. But I entered a scene reminiscent of a downtrodden bodega - small and cramped, zero decor, and bottles randomly strewn across shelves. But as my eyes focused, gems were revealed. On the messy shelves sat a HIghland Park Fire next to a Yamazaki 18. There were vintage bottles of Ardbeg, a Mortlach 25, Springbanks up to 21 years, a Macallan Rare Cask, and numerous high-end drams from bottlers I've never heard of. I was quickly greeted by an older gentleman behind the counter.
Him: "Looking for anything in particular?"
Me (at a loss for words): "No."
Him: "Well, what do you like?"
Me (at a loss for cogent thoughts): "I like a lot of things...and wow, you have a lot of amazing whiskeys."
Him: "We have a lot more that aren't out on the shelves, so it would help if you and I had a dialogue".
Fortunately, I recovered my ability to make meaningful conversation, and our discussion commenced. Somewhere along the way, I noted I recently tried and very much enjoyed Old Pulteney 17. He smiled. "We just got the new line", he said, revealing a bottle of the new 15 from behind the counter that was about a third full. Pointing to the low level of remaining juice, he told me the bottle had just been opened two days prior. "It's VERY good," he said as he reached for a plastic cup and gave me a pour.
VERY good indeed.
I purchased a bottle and headed to dinner. I opened it the next night for a more relaxed and deliberate sampling.
On the nose, there is sea air, brown sugar, and sherried fruit notes. The palate has the same notes as the nose, plus some toffee, raisins, and a hint of dark chocolate on the finish. It's certainly different than the Old Pulteney 12 or the 17, but retains many of the key characteristics of both, with the saltiness being the most notable.
Compared to the 17, I like the 15 just a bit better. It has stronger sherry barrel notes, and I enjoy those notes very much. Those who prefer a bit more oak influence will likely favor the 17.
Overall, this is a fantastic new dram, a keeper for sure. And a great start to my dialog with the good folks at FWS, to which I will certainly return.
95.0
USD
per
Bottle
Federal Wine & Spirits