cascode
Reviewed
September 24, 2018 (edited April 9, 2022)
American whiskey tasting evening, Sydney, 21 September 18. Whiskey #6
Nose: Rich woody aromas of many types – sawn planks, waxed floorboards, old sideboards, charred barrel staves, hazelnuts, walnuts, etc. Behind this oak-forward profile there are scents of orange flowers and zest, vanilla extract, raisins, Jersey caramels, bananas, tobacco, desiccated coconut and cinnamon. The addition of water brings out a slight minty and menthol hint and opens the nose considerably.
Palate: The arrival is massive and richly semi-sweet like a mouthful of stewed prunes and apricots soaked in high-proof alcohol. This is balanced by a tannic dryness that is just enough to prevent the palate from becoming cloying or one-note sweet, and by an intense, but not unpleasant, alcohol heat. There is also a combination of sugary flavours - brown sugar, maple syrup, treacle, toffee and fruit preserves. As it develops the profile becomes drier with dark chocolate and dried figs appearing alongside warm spicy notes of cinnamon and nutmeg. The overall impression is of dark Christmas pudding flambéed with bourbon.
Finish: Long. Astonishingly long. Sweet and leathery, the full mélange of flavours from the palate slowly fades away. I was still tasting a memory of this literally hours later.
For my 300th Distiller review I was going to rate an iconic scotch single malt, however after tasting this excellent Woodford Reserve at the whisky night I attended last Friday I decided it had to be the subject, as it is one of the best bourbons I have encountered. I do usually prefer scotch whisky to bourbon so you have to bear in mind that my opinion will always be influenced by that preference. In this case there is something about this whiskey that is reminiscent to me of an old cask-strength Speysider.
It is a classic bourbon, by which I mean there are no outré aromas or flavours, no fancy finishes and nothing unexpected. What makes it special is the depth and intensity of its character, with manifold layers being conveyed by the high proof, and its exquisite balance. It is, quite simply, a particularly well-made whiskey at cask strength.
However, although its powerful profile can be enjoyed neat, in my opinion water is necessary to allow full appreciation of its complexities. The high alcohol volume locks up the character as tightly as a pirate’s buried treasure, so although it is interesting neat it is also unrelenting and hard to penetrate. Dilution makes it a much more enjoyable and rewarding experience.
Fortunately, this spirit can swim like an orca. Just a few drops of water lifts the blanket of alcohol and releases more aromatic fruitiness and fragrant oak. This process continues as more water is gradually added - I eventually took it down to under 40% and it was still massive, flavourful and continuing to open.
It’s length and staying power are considerable, but perhaps the most outstanding aspect of this bourbon for me is its dynamic personality. The other spirits that were tried on the night seemed small, limited, easy and two-dimensional in comparison. They were still and quiet – unmoving and passive, whereas the Woodford Reserve seemed to be almost alive in the glass, breathing, constantly evolving and challenging the taste buds.
A highly recommended whiskey, and even at the relatively expensive price I’d call it value for money. I was very pleased to be able to acquire a bottle.
“Excellent” : 89/100 (4.75 stars)
225.0
AUD
per
Bottle