bigwhitemike
Hamilton Jamaican Pot Still Black Rum
Dark Rum — Jamaica
Reviewed
December 28, 2020 (edited August 14, 2021)
Appearance: Dark brown, presumably heavily colored as with all black rums (not sure I'd touch anything turned this color by a barrel!). A thin body. Negligible legs.
Nose: I'd be surprised if this was unusually high-ester, but low-ester it is not, as its heritage is clear on first sniff as it invades the nose with tropical vegetation, a pronounced sour edge, and an undercurrent of gently sulfured molasses. Bright acidic fruits lead - papaya; passion fruit - laced with floral notes, but transformed and deepened by molasses and ripe banana peel. No ethanol singe, but not for the faint of heart regardless.
<side rant>
"funk" and "hogo" don't resonate with me as descriptors, despite their ubiquity. I get the benefit of a quick way to describe the style, but it seems like they are often used to describe:
- all Jamaican rums, even where not applicable whatsoever or extremely subtle (ex: aged Appleton rums) and
- extremely complex flavor profiles, in a single catchall word, that can differ wildly from one expression to the next
which ultimately throws a lot of beautiful, assertive spirits and all of their myriad component flavors and differences into one "note".
</side rant>
Opening: sweet and rich syrup, subtle molasses
Mid-palate: tart tropical fruits from the nose build then fade to growing oak astringency with a vein of Juicy Fruit gum
Finish: brief flash on the swallow; lingering dryness and the molasses returns for a lengthy finish
Empty glass: prunes all day; smells like a port and it's delightful
Very satisfying overall. Don't have a good feel for value without tasting competition (Corbua? others?). Head and shoulders above Myers's in refinement and depth.
Gosling's is half the price and would still be my preference for Dark & Stormys, but this has much more character, plays lead instead of 3rd chair like Goslings, and was a delightful foil for the creamy, sweet spices in coquitos over the holiday.
28.0
USD
per
Bottle
Create Account
or
Sign in
to comment on this review
@Ctrexman lol. Well, now that you put it that way, I’m all aboard!
I dunno I kinda think of funk as a whiskey/rum descriptor as an enjoyable pungent off note that is maybe along the lines of an attractive womans slightly sweaty yoga pants
@cascode agree and am 100% on board with hogo as a rum descriptor. As you say, I think I see that one as being misapplied more than lacking a definition. Perhaps as rum continues to gain tractiion, as bourbon has over the last decade+, folks will have a better understanding and take a little more care in their references... or, who knows, common usage may grant "rum funk" the definition and credibility it currently lacks! Time will tell!
Sounds wonderful, I must see if this is available here - I have a feeling it might have been once but not at the moment. Regarding the side-rant, I know exactly what you mean and I could not agree more regarding the term "funk". It's not a traditional whisky profile descriptor and no professional has ever used it. It appeared in whisky circles a couple of years ago when Daniel Whittington popularised it as a catch-all for aromas or flavours that are more robust and challenging than average, but it's a lazy term that has as much value and meaning as "smooth", and it should be equally avoided. I know it's elitist and snobbish of me but whenever I read or hear the term I can't help thinking "this review is from a noob". Hogo has a lot more credibility - it's been around for a while and is used in the industry by professional critics, rum-distillers and independent bottlers. It's an English corruption of the French "haut goût" which translates as "high flavour" and was used in the past to refer to gamey meats, strong smelling cheese, and high-ester rum. It's a useful term but as you say it is being used too casually and applied to rum that is not really "hogo" in character. I can think of only a handful that I've tasted that truly deserve the term.