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cascode

Grande Absente Absinthe

Absinthe — France

Reviewed January 11, 2021 (edited July 14, 2023)
2.25
2.25 out of 5 stars
Appearance: (Neat) Bright green, obviously artificially coloured. (Diluted) Pale pearly jade-green with moderate cloudiness. It does not have the depth and interesting facets of some absinthes but it does not look artificial once louched, however the louche is slow to begin and never achieves great density. Aroma: Less interesting in comparison to the better absinthes. You don’t notice aromas blooming from the glass as water is added, and you have to nose it up close to get anything. When you do the nose is mainly anise and fennel. There are some grassy, woody aromas and a sweet smell in the background but it’s not a complex nose. Flavour and Texture: Soft and sweet entry, even with no sugar. Liquorice and herbal notes and it is slightly numbing. There is a bitter background (particularly at less than 1:5 dilution) and the texture is agreeable, but more waxy than usual and a little thin. It does not have the lush creamy mouthfeel of good absinthes. The finish is on the short side and overall it's a simple palate. Grande Absente is often criticized for not being a real absinthe and not containing Artemisia absinthium or green anise, but that is not true. It does contain those ingredients but it is not produced in the “traditional” manner, and it also contains star anise and sugar which are standard in pastis but never used in absinthe. It is also not just compounded from oils as some critics say, but neither is it a single distillation product. It is made using a hybrid process where distillations, macerations, sourced oils and extracts are blended together. Consequently this is best thought of as a spirit that sits midway between absinthe and pastis. The colour, however, is absolutely artificial. Tartrazine (E102) and Brilliant Blue FCF (E133) are used to make the lurid green shade. It’s a pity the producers use these additives as a short cut instead colouring the spirit naturally with chlorophyll. This is not a great “absinthe” but neither is it terrible. It would be acceptable for cocktails or a sazerac rinse instead of the real thing but as a straight-up louched drink it is pretty simple and dull. It does not deserve the exaggerated criticism it receives based on incorrect information, but neither is it something worth seeking out. The producer, Distilleries et Domains de Province, is a long established and respected producer of liqueurs and pastis. They produce Henri Bardouin pastis, which is one of the most highly regarded brands, and the delicious RinQuinQuin peach aperitif. At the price it is not competitive and I would not recommend purchasing it. Pernod absinthe sells for $30 less in Australia and is a much better product. If you are just mildly curious and want to dip your toes in the sea of absinthe at reasonable cost, that's the one to choose. “Adequate” : 73/100 (2.25 stars)
130.0 AUD per Bottle
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