cascode
Wolfburn From The Stills Summer 2020 Distillery Exclusive
Single Malt — Highlands, Scotland
Reviewed
January 16, 2021 (edited January 21, 2021)
Whisky Tasting : The Oak Barrel, Sydney, 14 January 2021. Whisky #3
Nose: Light floral malt, nut and fruit aromas. Delicate but not shy in character. A little spirity but the ethanol presence is not intrusive. The sweeter fragrances are all immediate and “on top” with light smoke in the background, but the dry glass is very smoky, showing just how much the peat presence contributes to the foundation of the profile.
Palate: Balanced entry centered on cereal notes, with a sweet creamy presence evolving – reminiscent of muesli and fruit yoghurt. Dark fruit (figs, dates), dry fruit and nutty flavours (particularly almond) in the development but it is not a heavy palate. As with the nose some excellent subtle smoke flavours appear with repeated sips but they are also not heavy – more lightly smoked ham than full-on barbecue, and certainly not maritime at all. The texture progesses into an even more oily form with time in the glass.
Finish: Medium/long. Lightly smoked, like grilled tropical fruit. The finish trails into a creamy sweet aftertaste but there is a slight nip of sour "plastic-like" peat in the end.
Overall this is a well-balanced but subtle whisky that repays thoughtful tasting. A hurried appreciation will lead to the impression that it is a lightweight, which is erroneous. Water brings out spicy notes but is neither required nor preferable. I’d recommend taking this one neat.
The “From the Stills” expressions are normally only available from the distillery door, but as in-person visits were not possible during 2020 the distillery chose to instead make the year’s bottling available through retail channels. This is the first such expression I've tasted.
It was a vatting from two sherry casks, a 7 year old hogshead and a younger (probably 3-4 year old) octave. The sherry-cask influence is apparent as dark and dried fruit notes and a pervading sweetness, but the whisky never loses balance. The distillate is allowed to take the wheel, as it should.
This is, however, a little on the expensive side and as much as I enjoyed it I decided not to buy a bottle on the night. It’s a good Wolfburn, but I think they make better expressions at lower prices, as well as some excellent ones for not too much more.
“Above Average” : 82/100 (3.25 stars)
165.0
AUD
per
Bottle
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@Jan-Case Same here, I've had all the previous numbered editions and they have all impressed. I'm surprised that Wolfburn is not more widely appreciated. I think it's a distillate style you either "get" or not. I'd imagine some people are also put off by the fact that they do not release aged expressions, but specialise in younger NAS whisky.
I agree. I didn’t get the nutty pets you got on my first dram but since I have a full bottle I will observe that on the next glass. Maybe it changes over as well but with that young age I doubt that. But I am exited about this years numbered small batch.