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John Walker & Sons Celebratory Blend
Blended — Scotland
Reviewed
March 11, 2021 (edited March 26, 2022)
Nose: Apple, pear and malt on the initial nosing, maybe an orange peel aroma as well. The leathery Darjeeling tea and floral sherried oak that is common to all Johnnie Walker blends is present. Ginger, treacle and yeasty wash, and there is an ashy note – not quite peat smoke, more like soot. Complex and interesting for a blended scotch nose.
Palate: On the entry there is sweet gristy cereal, malt extract, orchard fruits, thinned honey and red berries. This sweet arrival flows into the development, gradually accumulating more spicy and bitter notes. Cinnamon (both sweet and hot), pepper, a drying flavour like unsweetened cocoa and tannic oak all appear and the ashen note from the nose is present here as well. The texture is excellent, with silky and creamy highlights from the grain whisky component.
Finish: Medium. The fruity and malt notes fade quickly (very quickly in fact), but there is a bright, crisp grainy flavour that lingers. The bitter tannic tinge remains until the end and there is a little white pepper and brine in the aftertaste.
There is a particular quality to all Johnnie Walker blends that is instantly recognizable, and this certainly has it. It’s very much like a mixture of Red Label, Black Label and Gold Label turned up to 11. I can immediately recognise Cardhu in the blend and I bet there is some Teaninich as well, but that's all I can spot for sure.
The hot and bitter notes combined with 51% abv would make it a challenging whisky for a novice, but to anyone with some experience I would think it should be most interesting. It does not taste "hot" as such, but the ethanol concentration amplifies the spice notes and tannins. Certainly anyone who likes Johnnie Walker should try a pour.
So, the elephant in the room – is this REALLY what 1860s blended whisky would have tasted like? It is impossible to say for sure as there are no surviving samples of such whisky to analyse. There are recipes and blending records in the Diageo archives but the fundamental problem is that the style of malt and grain whisky that is produced today is very different to that of 150 years ago. The best that a blender can hope to do is make something that is an honest hommage, and approaches what we think it may have been like.
On that score it's interesting how much this reminds me of Old Parr blended scotch, another Diageo brand that has a very old-school recipe, and I think that answers the question. Whether or not this is genuinely like something that would have been made in the 1860s it is most definitely a very “old-school” style of blended whisky, and that’s good enough for me. In reality, I'd bet good money that this is more like JW from the 1960s than the 1860s.
Where does it sit in the JW lineup? Somewhere between Double Black and the 18 year old. It's more interesting then the lower echelon Red, Black and special finish blends that I've previously rated at less than 3 stars, but not quite up there with Blue Label or the old Platinum 18 that rate 4 or more.
I agree with the official Distiller rating of 89, but the official comments leave me scratching my head in confusion. I’m not convinced that he and I have tasted the same whisky.
At the usual price of $100 in Australia it is questionable whether this is value for money, however when I bought it on special for $75 I bought 2 bottles, and I’m glad I have one to keep in the short-term stash.
“Good, not far short of Very Good” : 84/100 (3.75 stars)
100.0
AUD
per
Bottle
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now that mine has opened up can totally see the old parr comparison. it'd definitely more white grape rind and Sultana where OP is perhaps white grape juice and peat at best.
@Benji-Robert thanks for the info/insight. Maybe I will settle for just a pour at a bar/restaurant if I see a bottle.
@Scott_E I would pay $10bucks above green for this, but not $30. I'm willing because this has a bit in common with the old gold 18yr (sweet, lighter, robust, mild peat), even if it's not in the same league.
definitely a review I wish I could heart twice. just grabbed a bottle on sale (it sold terribly around here, and many places with bigger stocks have started offloading it) and agree that the only thing holding this back from the higher echelon of JW products is the finish--delicious, but juuuuust a touch too young to be called any sort of 'refined' the peat on my bottle is nice and punchy, massive butterscotch nose, I think I got a cherry bottle.
Excellent in depth review. Locally, it’s $79. Comparatively, I can get Green for $49. So, would/should I spend the $30 for this experience? Still unsure. Thanks for the JW spectrum comparison.
@ngolofane Not really, but you have to keep in mind what they are - premium blended scotches aimed at a demographic that prizes texture and mouth-feel as much as, or more than, any other consideration. Against a cask-strength, single-cask malt then sure, they will seem flaccid. The more important question is whether that texture and experience justifies the price. For me, yeah ... sometimes 🙂
Great review. Have a bottle and looking forward to trying it. The reason I don’t usually care for “good” JW is the 80 proof. The fact that this is over 100 intrigued me. Don’t you find the blue and platinum a little watered down?
@cascode appreciate the knowledge as always!
@dubz480 Talisker was founded in 1830 and was definitely one of the distilleries from which Alexander Walker sourced malt whisky. It was he (the son of John Walker) who registered the label "Old Highland Whisky" in 1867.
@cascode i’m a huge fan of Talisker (along with Springbank )...I just might need to buy this based on that. I loved the Green Label—-thought it was a masterpiece especially considering the price.
@cascode great review and call it out on Talisker component. I had the exact same thought with the spice kick in there. The only thing I was questioning is was it operating at the time and would it be included in a "Highland Blend"
@PBMichiganWolverine Was posting from my phone before - expanding a bit, Green Labal has greater depth and nuance. It's a blended malt rather than a blended scotch so there is no intrusive young grain whisky note (even though it is actually pretty nice here). On a tangent, it just struck me where all that peppery spice is coming from - I'd bet anything there is a good dose of very young Talisker in this.
Very good review; I’d be fine with a 1960s level of quality in flavour, actually.
@PBMichiganWolverine The Green Label, without hesitation.
@cascode between this and the Green, which do you think was better ?