skillerified
Highland Park 12 Year Viking Honour
Single Malt — Islands, Scotland
Reviewed
June 27, 2021 (edited October 8, 2022)
N: Smoke, salty sea spray, and sour fruit. Lemon and other citrus. There's some kind of funky exotic fruit in it that I can't place (or remember the name of right now) - it's vaguely tropical, but also very earthy and mineral, while remaining somehow within the fruit family of scents. The smoke elements are also mineral and chalky, so maybe I'm getting some crossover - I'm not complaining. The smoke feels like something all HP's own - it's not Islay and it's not Campbelltown. It's like fresh cut peat bog (I imagine) that was only lightly smoked - the smoke is there, but it's mingled with wet earth, dried leaves and grass, hay, maybe some herbs, etc. Under those layers you find dried peach and pear, fresh apricot, and a fresh cut vegetable sort of scent. There's an ethanol that doesn't smell like much, but has a noticeable numbing effect.
P: Rich and heavy, oily and coating. Sweet with vanilla and brown sugar leading the way. An earthy and vegetal peat flavor hits the sides of the tongue. Running a quick breath over it while on the tongue occasionally releases a short but intense blast of peat smoke that (now) reminds of Islay whiskies. Sweet, sweet, sweet. And yet, not unbalanced - it somehow works. Caramel drenched dark bread with vanilla icing. Milk chocolate and roast coffee. There's definitely some fresh cut vegetables in there, which seems like it shouldn't work with the sweet, but it does. The smoke and peat somehow feel like a bridge between the flavors. Finish flashes some spice, but is otherwise kind of unremarkable. Spice is baking spice with moderate heat - noticeable, but nothing memorable. It's cut with sweet honey and also that vegetable bitterness - like brussels sprouts or something along those lines. And then there's a lingering saltiness that just hangs in there. And hangs in there. And hangs...
This is great and also kind of weird. It's like pouring (smoked) maple syrup on a plate that's 70% vegetables and the rest is fruit. It's sweet, vegetal, fruity, smoky. It's really a flavor combination that probably only exists in whisky, and maybe only this whisky. And yet, it works. I guess that's what it takes to make a classic - it's good and you can't get this taste anywhere else. I do think it's a touch overpriced - would be killer at $40-45, but $55 has more competition. Still, looking forward to the 18 year, whenever I get to it.
54.0
USD
per
Bottle
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@skillerified This is one that here anyway, wasn't effected by tariffs. My Laphroaig 10 is still sitting at $65, though. I get angry just looking at it.
Wonder if this one drops at all in price with the tariffs dropping off. Would guess not, but one can hope.
When I moved to Texas end of 2018 this was $33 at Total wine
Great review and thanks to @cascode for the interesting input. Knowledgeable crowd around here. Good stuff.
@skillerified It's interesting how much difference regional peat makes - it's a much bigger terroir factor than barley, IMHO. Orkney peat is soft, highland peat is woody and bonfire-like, Islay peat is maritime and BBQ, etc. Things get a bit confused however as many distilleries import their peated malt. Arran usee peated and unpeated malt from Boortmalt in Glenesk which is about halfway between Dundee and Aberdeen in the eastern highlands, and Springbank malt 100% of their barley on-site but inport the peat from Islay.
@cascode That's interesting and makes sense. Feel like it confirms what I tasted. Also rings a bell about the malting - think I'd heard that before and forgotten. Definitely did not know anything about the composition of peat bogs though. Super interesting.
That elusive smoke quality comes from Orkney peat. Highland Park produces about 30% of their malt themselves at their floor maltings and it is peated to 30-40ppm. The remaining 70% comes from Simpsons in Northumberland and is unpeated, so overall you get a very mild peating level of about 10-12%. Orkney peat is also unique in that it is formed from heather, grass and small shrubs rather than bracken and trees so it has a milder, almost herbal note.