ContemplativeFox
Caledonian 1987 29 Year Cask Strength Collection (Signatory)
Single Grain — Lowlands, Scotland
Reviewed
October 8, 2021 (edited March 24, 2022)
Rating: 12/23
I've heard that single grains aren't good until they reach 30 years of age, but when I got this I figured 29 years was probably close enough. Let's find out.
N:Dry, tannic wood, burning alcohol, nuttiness, tartness. Lemon peel, some oiliness. Not a ton of complexity here.
P: Sweet with some pretty substantial nutty richness with a bit of oil. Some dry lemony waxy tartness and harsh spices give it that typical single grain profile. There's some nice subtle cinnamon with a little ginger and touch of clove making up the spices. An occasional faint hint of tropical fruit makes me think of Willett rye. I don't get much alcohol flavor, but there is some, which is kind of surprising at this age. There is some dry wood character at times, but the wood really doesn't make itself very known. As I'm sipping this, I'm finding that the nose and palate are becoming more refined and I'm able to taste more nuance. It's still a struggle though.
A delicate oaky layer with faint vanilla eventually emerges. It's nice and I can appreciate a whisky trying to highlight the juice by restraining the wood, but the juice comes across as a bit immature and doesn't have a ton of character to it.
Water restrains the heat a bit and brings out more of the grain flavor, though it doesn't really do anything for the harshness and a lot of the other flavors get squashed.
This is definitely a standard single grain profile. It's unobjectionable, but lacking in character.
F: It keeps burning for a bit. Oily with a bit of lemon and spice. There's actually kind of clean sweetness to the oiliness that's more pronounced here than on the palate.
On a clean palate, this is quite enjoyable. It's never amazing, but it's good. It always strikes me as a bit harsh though. I would not have guessed this was 29 years old if asked; I'd have said it was a 10 year old that was a very high proportion hearts and was aged in fairly used casks. Whatever cask they found for this must have been several fills in.
Side by side, I find that Dewar's 15 The Monarch (13) has better complexity and I appreciate its comparatively relaxed nature and toasty grains. I'd probably take the Dewar's over this, unfortunately.
Càrn Mòr's 1994 24.5ish year old Girvan (12) is richer and fuller than this is, but it does have a bit more alcohol flavor and definitely more harshness. There was a moment when I thought I'd take the Girvan over this, but now I think I wouldn't. Still, it's not great that this is at the Girvan's level. I think that I might have overrated the Girvan though. It could be an 11 or 10. I think a 12 is the high end of what I could give this.
Three Scottish Brothers (12) is more approachable and hedonistic than this with greater richness, but less fullness (which makes sense considering that it's only 40% ABV). They're different ends of the 'typical single grain' spectrum, but I find them to be competitive.
I'm considering an 11 or 12 for this. I think I'm going with a 12.
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@Bourbon_Obsessed_Lexington I'm pretty sure it is corn-based. I haven't seen anything really authoritative to that effect, but I've seen it mentioned a few times.
@Bourbon_Obsessed_Lexington Great question, I think Single Grain can refer to a combination of wheat, corn or rye and can be malted or un-malted. @ctbeck11 and I did a comparison of a single grain scotch and American light whiskey that was 97% corn, 3% barley and they are very similar. They both are often aged in used bourbon barrels so the wood influence is minimal even after so many years.
Really dumb question here but is the grain a corn base in this case? The single grain definition doesn’t seem to restrict the mash bill the way bourbon does (ie >51% corn + literally anything else). Just have to wonder if the particular grain blend is blame as 29y is one long time!
@pkingmartin Thanks - I'd love to compare them! I'll send you a sample of this too next time and you can see what you think. It could be that you and/or @PBMichiganWolverine find this to be a lot better than I did.
Dang sorry to hear this was a bust! I have two Caledonians that are older than 30 years and will have to send you some samples to compare to this one.
@ContemplativeFox I have a pour of this as well. Hopefully my taste buds will beg to differ. Am really looking forward to a well aged grain