ContemplativeFox
Auchroisk "This is Like Spectacular" Apollo 9, The Whisky Barrel Exclusive
Single Malt — Speyside, Scotland
Reviewed
January 16, 2022 (edited January 17, 2022)
Rating: 9/23
I've read mixed reviews of this one, so I'm not sure what quality to expect. I am skeptical of taking a mild spirit like Auchroisk and putting it in a PX cask though.
N: Syrupy PX like I just opened a PX bottle. Sweet, raisin, confectioner's sugar. Getting past that, there's a weird funkiness to this. It reminds me a lot of that weird funk in Glenfarclas 105 and Rabbit Hole Dereringer, so I think it's an effect of the sherry. It's sort of a vegetal and kind of savory funk. The alcohol does come out and bite a little past that, which I guess is reasonable with a proof this high. I also get some chocolate, though it's a little bit off. There's a bit of nuttiness too, which is of course oily. Dashes of bright lemon punctuate at time and I get some clementines showing up as well. There's a definite earthiness as well with faint tar to it. This is a very interesting nose, but it's also quite challenging.
P: Syrupy with sweetness and, oh, what is that. It tastes like freshly toasted wood chips right out of the oven. This isn't that sawdust flavor that I get in Garrison Brothers and it really doesn't match any flavor I've gotten elsewhere. It's that warm immense toastiness I get when I pull a tray of hot American oak wood chips out. That really is the primary flavor here. I didn't expect that. Aside from that, there's some syrupy PX sweetness also vying for center stage. It's sweet with raisins, orange peel, and nut oil. There's some of that earthy funk with tar, but not as much as I'd feared. Still, I'm not a fan of that funk.
That said, I do see why Auchroisk might have been chosen for this because some of its milky character does come out and add a layer of mellowness like it's saying "I'm sensing some crazy vibes here, so let's all just chill out". Not what I really expect from Auchroisk, but it kind of works in artistic way. I'm really surprised by the degree to which the Auchroisk shows through. That it shows through at all, actually.
There definitely a sense of youth to this, along with too much funk and a sense of rapid aging. The sulphur is really starting to show itself now and I'm also losing some of the wood's sweetness. This dramatically lessens my opinion of this spirit
F: Wood that has lost its sweetness, sulphur, and some of that sweet syrupy fruit.
- Conclusion -
This definitely tastes more youthful and unbalanced than That Boutique'y Whisky Company's Auchroisk 19 (17/23). Between the two, I think That Boutique-y Whisky Company has the clear winner.
Time to compare this with some funky sherry finishes then. Glenglassaugh Pedro Ximenez Finish (12/23) is lighter (only 46% ABV) with more character from its distillate intact, but it also shows a lot more funkiness and its funkiness really lingers and tastes a bit more off-putting. That rapid aging wood chips character might be overpowering the funkiness a bit more in this. I swear that someone must have toasted a barrel at some point here. This tastes less balanced, but its flavors are better I guess. I would take this over the Glenglassaugh, but I think that the gap between the two is not so great as it is between this and That Boutique-y Whisky Company's Auchroisk 19.
With its higher proof and (presumably) similar age, Glenfarclas 105 (12/23) is playing a closer game to what this is. My immediate impression is that this is better than the Glenfarclas. Now, I've discovered that I'm not a fan of young Glenfarclas because it's just so funky. At old ages though, I think that Glenfarclas does very well. So I might be underrating the Glenfarclas, but I find it to be comparable to the Glenglassaugh and inferior to this. It just has so much youthful malt distillate. It actually reminds me of one of those American takes on Irish Whiskey that are always so weird (note to self: compare with Ransom The Emerald later). This is more like someone had that and instead of letting it age for 25 years to address the funkiness, they rapid aged it with toasted wood and PX. That said, there is a bit of youthful meatiness here that the Glenfarclass does not have, despite its tremendous funk. I don't know - now this one is seeming more out of whack.
On to Rabbit Hole Dereringer (another 12/23, apparently). There's lots of funk from the Rabbit hold, but still none of the meatiness that this has.
Look, normally I'd expect to be docking points for a whisky tasting like freshly toasted wood chips, but in this case anything is desperately needed to cover that earthy, tarry, meaty funk. Ick! This is certainly not all bad, and the Auchroisk distillate fights nobly to maintain its dignity. Throughout this tasting though I have been convinced that That Boutique'y Whisky Company's Auchroisk 19 is far better than this. I don't think I can entertain any score higher than a 14 for this. And based on my latest impressions, I might go down to an 8. I'll need to come back to finalize my score another time. If I were to rate this now though, I'd give it a 13. It's a near disaster, like that Apollo mission Tom Hanks was on, not like the one it's named after.
Hmm, coming back to this, its imbalance is glaring and borders on overwhelming. I get definite sulphur that I don't get from the other sherry finished whiskeys. They're funky to an unpleasant degree in an unpleasant way for sure, but I can imagine someone loving them. With the sulphur here...I don't see how this is OK. As a sanity check, That Boutique-y Whisky Company's Auchroisk 19 is still crushing this. Wow, I'm now thinking this is in the 6 to 13 range an am most likely looking at a 10 (though I'm considering a 9 very seriously). This isn't peaty sulphur here: this is low-end scotch that I wouldn't drink sulphur.
This now tastes to me like I went to store, bought some highly sulphuric bottom shelf scotch like Piper's Clan, then tried to fix it with toasted wood chips and PX sherry. I really do like the Auchroisk milkiness here and the initial wave of sweet vanilla off of the freshly toasted oak is pretty nice too. The sweet PX flavor, while excessive, isn't something I inherently dislike either. While crude attempts at covering up the sulphur, these flavors do improve the dram.
This one is really hard to rate because its worse than anything I currently have open. There's no way it's an 11. A 7 is faintly possible. I'm thinking an 8 or 9. I'm going to give it the 9.
Thanks @PBMichiganWolverine for sharing this one. I was curious to try the younger Auchroisk with the aggressive sherry finishing and I'm intrigued by how different this was from my expectations.
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@PBMichiganWolverine @ctbeck11 Yep, wasn’t a fan. It was an alcohol and sherry overload. Seemed like it wasn’t aged long enough and overpowered by what must have been sherry casks with sherry still left in them.
@PBMichiganWolverine Yep. In the end, I think I liked it a little more than the three of you did, but it definitely had some significant flaws.
@ctbeck11 had the same reaction.
@ContemplativeFox I’m in the same camp——I think they got some underperforming Auchroisk , tried fixing it by overwhelming the base spirit in an over active PX, and then topped it off by having a fancy label in some loose association with lunar missions. I think @pkingmartin and @ctbec