ContemplativeFox
Benromach 15 Year
Single Malt — Speyside, Scotland
Reviewed
March 30, 2022 (edited March 31, 2022)
Rating: 13/23
N: Kind of light and possibly watery. Light sherry fruitiness. There's an underlying richness, but the fullness just isn't there. Cherry, apple, a little nut oil, a squeeze of lemon, a bit of mellow, dry smoke, and a little odd mustiness. It could be a pretty good nose if it were just fuller. A little bit of questionable meatiness with rock salt and faint pepper. Still, the fruitiness is nice.
P: This is more woody, than I'd expected, with a bold sherry woodiness that reminds me of my bottle of North British 28 (1991) by Signatory. It seems a bit over-oaked, but there are some nice spices (clove, black pepper, ginger) with bitter oaky nuances and occasional, faint suggestions of vanilla adding interest. A bit of musty spice.
There is some malty sweetness in here, along with some flint, but there's also just kind of a flat woodiness and something slightly sour in an off way.
At times, I wonder whether that dry woodiness might actually just be smoke. I guess at least a bit of it is smoke, but I think it's mostly wood.
It just hit me that a fair amount of that funkiness I've been trying to nail down is from a PX cask. It isn't overwhelming at all, but it doesn't balance all that well with the dry smoke.
F: Remnants of the sherry, but only as part of the sweetness comes out. A. bold, somewhat tannic wood layer sits there.
- Conclusion -
The North British (17/23) is decidedly better. It's richer and fuller with less weirdness. This is a bit maltier, but it's more muddled and less interesting.
I find this disappointing, but Dalmore 12 (15/23) is also better than this. The Dalmore is just a clean balance of malted barley with sherry and bourbon barrels. This is funkier, but it's out of whack, with weird combinations of flavors that don't really balance and a bitter layer that's hard to get past.
With the Dalmore being a 15, I think that this is in the 12 to 14 range. That PX flavor is increasingly bothering me.
It pains me to say this, but the clean flavor and balance of Monkey Shoulder (14/23) are a relief to taste beside this, though the youthfulness and ethanol do show with the Monkey Shoulder. This isn't too far off from the Monkey Shoulder, but I think I'd put the Monkey Shoulder a little ahead of this.
I'm also inclined to give the nod to Benromach 10 over this. Although I like the maturity here, there are just enough problems that the more youthful but less flawed Benromach 10 is a little bit more appealing.
I'm going with a 13 here.
Benromach unfortunately seems to be a story of throwing everything in and hoping it turns out. They really need to work on targeting specific flavors and balancing.
Thank you @ctbeck11 for letting me try this one. It's not to my liking, so you probably saved me from buying a bottle.
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This sounds quite different to when I last tasted it, but that was a few years ago now. Glad I snagged two bottles of the old 15 year when it was good.
@angstrom I tried an Edradour recently and it was great. Benromach is definitely my least favorite of the 4 mentioned
@ctbeck11 Hopefully I will see Springbank in the wild again. Craigellachie is also on the next up list. This also reminds me some of Edradour. That also probably fits in that prehistoric category.
@ContemplativeFox A lack of smart companies? Always seems like the whiskey changes when the bottle does. Maybe it is psychological.
@angstrom Benromach whiskies are reminiscent of Springbanks and Craigellachies for me. Not because they taste the same, but all have distinctly funky, richly malty profiles that make me think of whisky from the pre-modern, olden days with their antiquated distillation and warehousing techniques. I think it’s my least enjoyed of the three, but I can appreciate that aspect of it.
@angstrom My understanding is that the liquid didn't change with the bottle in this case. A smart company wouldn't change both at the same time, but that in no way means that they didn't.
@ctbeck11 Cool. I am working my way slowly through the older style bottle, too. Mine tastes a lot like Glendronach 15 yr with some dirty peat smoke added. It is a bit of a kitchen sink blend, but I am enjoying it.
@angstrom This was from the old style bottle. I bought it December 2020, not long after the new design was released.
Curious… was this the old style graffiti bottle or rebranded white/red bottle?
@ctbeck11 That or it's gotten hidden behind other bottles on your shelf :) I see I have one of the lowest ratings of this here. Considering that I did side by sideing and my palate was in good shape, I think this just means that I don't really like the benromach profile. It happens.
Benromachs definitely have their own kind of funk going on. Think I liked this more than you last I remember tasting it, but haven’t poured a glass in probably over a year. Maybe that says something about my opinion of it.