pkingmartin
Dowling Collector's Edition 21 year
Bourbon — USA
Reviewed
May 31, 2022 (edited July 16, 2022)
On a recent trip to Louisville, we discovered a few new spots with some dusty old bottles of bourbon that were available to taste. At one of the locations we were having some friendly discussions about bourbon involving the hunting, finding and eventual disappointments in certain overhyped names before the owner was kind enough to bring our attention to this Collectors Choice 21 year that was distilled in 1948 and bottled in 1969 at 47.3% ABV by Dowling Distillers. He simply told us that none of the modern bourbon today could compete with an old dusty like this one which immediately prompted the need of a pour for science.
The nose starts with deep and rich aromas of cavernous minerals, old cigars and leather that dominate but fade to the background to allow for sweeter notes of caramel corn, dense dark chocolate torte that has been topped with caramelized figs before those traditional bourbon citrus come through with mandarin orange, cinnamon apple streusel and flambeed black cherries that veers back into deep dusty resinous oak with no ethanol burn.
The taste is a rich engine oil viscosity starting with caramelized figs, cavernous minerality, metal shavings and old dusty leather bound books then butterscotch caramel over freshly popped popcorn and Black Forest cake followed by charred mandarin orange, sautéed apples and balsamic strawberries that transitions to freshly lit pipe tobacco, cloves, candied ginger and black tea with light ethanol burn.
The finish is long with butterscotch caramel covered popcorn, Black Forest cake, cocoa nibs, dehydrated cherries, pipe tobacco, flinty minerality and dusty old leather bound books that lingers for minutes.
The owner wasn't kidding as this simply next level whiskey that is stunningly complex with old oak, minerality, motor oil and citrus fruits that the flavors are bold and perfectly balanced that really showcases how incredible some of these old dusty bourbons can be.
Based on the price tag of $2400 a bottle that I could find online, this is unfortunately not a bottle I'll be buying, but I'm very hopeful that I might be lucky enough to get another pour of this on my next trip out to Louisville.
If anyone happens to find a bottle or even a pour at a price you can justify, I would highly recommend you go for it as this is one of those truly memorable drinks that is more of an experience that even though the finish eventually fades, the memory of it for me will likely linger on for life.
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@ContemplativeFox The bottle has been open for less than a year, so I'm not sure how much oxidation has done for the flavors. Those 21 years in a cask certainly had an impact that imparted a lot of wood character to it with bold tobacco and antique leather furniture dominating, but it never veered towards an overly tannic bitterness which was the case with Kentucky Owl Dry State. There were flavors of minerality, dark berries and caramel corn that I can't recall finding in other bourbons that worked incredibly well with those old wood notes. Perhaps due to lower production at the distilleries they were able to do more of a craft job than today or the water and ingredients used were superior. Not all old bottles taste great as I found out with some Jim Beam decanters that tasted like shoe polish, but this, a Stitzel-Weller Rebel Yell and a 1962 Old Forester have been some of the best bourbon I've ever had.
The dark mahogany color on it is enticing! Wondering how well-balanced is the oak influence. 21 years in barrel for bourbon is pushing it…and if the barrel management is not exceptional, it’s game over!
Wow, I'm so glad you got to try this! I won't be actively searching it out, but if I ever happen across it, I'll definitely try it. This all makes me wonder though just what exactly makes this such an amazing dram. The 21 years in barrel? The time since then? The time in an open bottle? The way it was produced at the time?
This sounds amazing. It’s a unicorn dream pour…