cascode
Kilchoman Sanaig (2018 Edition)
Single Malt — Islay, Scotland
Reviewed
June 12, 2022 (edited August 23, 2022)
NOTE: This is an old review, re-posted from my tasting journal after I accidentally deleted it here (oops).
Kilchoman Masterclass at The Oak Barrel, Sydney, June 25th 2019: Whisky #2
Nose: You can sense the same distillery character as in Kilchoman's Machir Bay and Islay Barley expressions, but here the cereal and citrus notes are swapped out for deeper stewed fruit aromas and spices. The level of peat is identical to Machir Bay but the cask influence gives this whisky a richer and more full-bodied character. There’s a slight seaweed note but it is dusky and mellow - a gust of beach bonfire smoke carrying a hint of brine and honey-cured bacon.
Palate: A measured and full smoky arrival with stewed fruit (prunes, apricots). The distillery’s characteristic spice note is apparent in the development, but it's rounded and mild here with a complex palette of warm spices in evidence. The peat-smoke, which has a very nice leather, chocolate and tobacco quality, is pervasive and the texture is just to the oily side of neutral.
Finish: Medium. The palate rolls away smoothly leaving a well-balanced aftertaste with recurring wafts of smoke.
Sanaig showcases fragrant peat-smoke, the estery fruitiness of a long fermentation, fresh bourbon barrels and robust oloroso sherry casks and is one of Kilchoman’s best products - arguably the star of their core range. It's very good neat, but just a dash of water does it no harm at all. Unlike the Machir Bay and Islay Barley expressions where water smooths the edges and creates balance, in this case it melds the palate together and makes the whisky "bloom".
Interestingly, it is the same new-make as Machir Bay and only differs with regard to the casks used for maturation. In the case of Machir Bay, Kilchoman use 90% ex-bourbon/10% ex-sherry whereas here the combination is 70% ex-sherry/30% ex-bourbon. They also exclusively use wet casks and only do refills once, so the cask influence is always fresh and vigorous.
Sanaig is a consistent and well-balanced NAS that was originally only available in France but is now a foundation of the core range.
“Very Good” : 86/100 (4 stars)
115.0
AUD
per
Bottle
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