Nose: A carton of Cadbury’s Old Gold Fruit ‘n Nut Dark Chocolate bars (you have to be an Aussie – sorry) that have been stored in an ex-sherry barrel for about 10 years. I can’t explain it better. Raisins, dried figs, fortified wine, marzipan, leather sports car seats (the interior of a 1960's Jaguar), pipe tobacco, orange zest, mint. A huge nose with a profile that brings armagnac to mind. Water highlights some orange notes but mutes the whole performance. There is an unmistakable aroma of sulphur and it’s right on the cusp between fragrant, almost like sandalwood, and stinky rubber. Water softens it pleasantly. Palate: Big, sweet arrival full of chocolate and Christmas cake. In the development it seems to turn astringent for a moment but it’s just the tannins from big sherry casks kicking in. The apparent bitterness passes immediately leaving a firm, grippy oak foundation with espresso, muscat, mint, fennel and cointreau notes. The texture is excellent, this whisky has been composed to be correct when neat but it will take water gracefully. As with the nose there is a definite sulphur note on the palate but it’s just below the threshold of annoyance. Finish: Medium. The palate fades to a sweet finale with raspberry jam, liquorice, orange marmalade and chocolate. Formidable. Such a huge whisky but so very well presented. The abv is perfect and an object lesson in why the idea that every whisky should be bottled at 46% or more just "because" is vacuous. This one is beautifully balanced, mouthwatering, very moreish and requires no dilution – it is right just as it is but if you really want to reduce it you can do so without making it limp. Richard Paterson is a master of the art of blending. Dalmore seems to cop a lot of flak from some quarters for reasons that seem disingenuous to me. It’s an old-fashioned style of sherry monster of a particular type, and this is a very good example at a decent price. “Very Good” : 85/100 (4 stars)