cascode
Arran 18 Year
Single Malt — Islands, Scotland
Reviewed
October 13, 2022 (edited December 31, 2022)
Nose: Warming, hearty malt, beef bouillon, stewed prunes, fig jam, vanilla, clean fragrant wood, daydreams of oloroso and PX sherry. A very pleasant and fullsome nose indeed.
Palate: Sweet for a fraction of a second on the arrival (coffee crystals? Demerara sugar?), then gaining a little heat and ginger spice as it moves into a dry development with the foundation malt surging to centre stage. A fruity change mid-development as dried apple, baked peach, preserved figs, sweet dark chocolate, dark cherries and slightly bitter orange appear followed by a quick return of the lighter sugary sweet notes from the arrival. The texture is mouth-coating and full but balanced by mild astringency from some supple and very adroitly handled tannin. There is a very subtle liquorice note in the background that is supurb.
Finish: Long. Malt extract, dusky fruit and bittersweet citrus, fading into a satisfying aftertaste that keeps rolling along with lingering sherry influences.
Lovely whisky with excellent progression.
I last reviewed this here in mid-2019 but that was for the old bottling, which was quite different in my opinion. It had a drier character and the body was heftier and almost chewy.
This expression is softer and shows more citrus tones, and it is also slightly sweeter and more “rounded”. The sherry cask influence is exemplary - at no time do you notice sherry as a component but its influence permeates every part of this very good whisky’s profile and is the basis for all the complexity and evolution that happens.
Tasted from a 15ml sample. I was about to order a bottle but then saw the local price. It’s worth it and if I was a devotee of sherry maturation I'd buy one, but I can get Ledaig 18 and many other 18 year olds that are just as good for 2/3 the price so I don’t feel that compelled to have a bottle. Mind you, at $300 this stuff makes a laughingstock of contemporary Macallan 18. The real annoyance is that in the UK this sells for the equivalent of AUD$150. Grumble, grumble ...
“Very Good” : 87/100 (4.25 stars)
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Originally reviewed July 13, 2019
Note: This is a review of a 2018 bottle of Arran 18, which was a tall bottle with a gold and blue label. That image used to appear as the thumbnail for this listing but a while back Distiller replaced it with a picture of the new bottle style. This is misleading because the new 18 year old whisky is different in style. A new listing should have been made.
Nose: Malt, rye bread, sourdough bread, walnuts - it's almost like the nose of a full-bodied stout or porter. There are fruity aromas (green apple and lemon juice) but they are dry rather than sweet and absolutely not floral. There are also grassy herbal notes. It starts off a little reticent but it's a very pleasing nose that develops excellently over time. As it rests in the glass a faint notion of sherry cask comes to mind.
Palate: Sweet, rich creamy malt arrival that is voluptuous and soothing with spices that are warming rather than hot or bright. The development has some sweet stewed fruits and a flinty mineral note. There is a dry foundation under the sweetness that gives everything grip, but the very prominent sweet fruitiness of the earlier 18 year old is not present. Like the nose, the palate brings to mind a full, dark beer made from chocolate-roast malt. The texture is oily, chewy and seductive.
Finish: Medium/long. The crisp malty palate subsides into a sweet aftertaste with the slightest hint of fennel or anise and a drop of lemon juice. The lingering aftertaste is uncannily like a milk stout.
This whisky is the successor to the 2015 Arran 18 Year Old "Pure by Nature" expression which was a limited release and the last of a trio of special releases (16, 17 and 18 years old).
This whisky showcases the mature malty side of the Arran distillate. I don't know the precise cask combination but I'd guess there is a focus on refill bourbon with a smaller proportion of refill sherry casks. Unlike the 14 year old this is most decidedly not a sweet fruit basket and the focus here is squarely on the malty character, which is reminiscent of Belgian dark fruit beers.
The addition of water slightly emphasizes grassy, herbal notes but on the whole I think it spoils the whisky. This is quite delicious neat, and best taken that way.
"Very Good" : 86/100 (4 stars)
200.0 AUD per Bottle
299.0
AUD
per
Bottle
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@cascode I went to buy another Age of distinction pack- no such luck. All gone.
Addendum/further thoughts: After tasting this very fine whisky I had a dram of Glenrothes Whisky Maker’s Cut, a sherried NAS of good quality that I quite like. It is almost 1/3 the price of the Arran 18 and a good dram but in comparison it is much less impressive and shows it’s lack of maturity, which you would expect. The Arran really is impressive stuff and maybe with prices constantly rising $300 is not so outrageous for it. It’s only a little more than Dalmore 18 and GlenDronach 18 and in my opinion at least as good if not better. I wish I had another sample to consider as with further tasting I’d maybe up my rating to 4.5.
@DrRHCMadden I’d agree with all those, although the Aberlour is only a 500ml bottle 🙁, and I’d add Caol Ila, Glen Scotia, Deanston, any of the 18 year old Douglas Laing regional series blended malts to the list.
@LouisianaLonghorn oh, don’t trust my opinion. I barely know what I’m doing. Coming in under our local AUD$300 price point I could get highland park 18 for 220-250, talisker 18 for 225 and old pultney 18 for as low as 185! As @cascode said ledchig 18 is 199, and it’s counterpart Tobermory is the same. Abelour 18 is sometimes down to 145! So, with change to spare for the Arran the range of options is huge making it a tough sell. There is also a pathetically small allocation of Arrans for Australia making it hard to find. Personally for all the Arrans I’ve had (12?) the 18 is hardest one for me to place on the price per %brilliance scale.
@DrRHCMadden and which 18s might those be in your opinion?
I am blown away at how much you pulled out of this for 15 ml. I agree on reflection with a lot of what you say. The 25 I think takes this up an order of magntiude. The 21 is strange as it’s more like a development of the 10. Such that I wouldn’t mind paying for the 21 or 25. Agree though, that for us the price of the 18 is probative when other 18s that are arguably better value are available.