cascode
Tomintoul 17 Year 2001/2018 Single Cask
Single Malt — Speyside, Scotland
Reviewed
November 8, 2022 (edited November 10, 2022)
Nose: Initially sandalwood, honeysuckle, frangipani, and malt extract. Later, as it settles and opens, rich Christmas cake and plum pudding aromas come forward together with tobacco, leather and a very subtle, fleeting note of smoke. Later still, deep earthy lemon and orange fragrances appear. This nose is a 5-star delight that showcases masterful 100% PX cask maturation.
Palate: Warming arrival with soft tannin and honeyed malt. The development sees a little crisp oak spice emerge but it is just enough to provide foundation and balance to the otherwise soft and fruity profile. Roasted nuts, caramel toffee. The texture is oily, woody and chewy but with a soft, sweet quality. The balance is excellent and adding a dash of water makes the mouthfeel creamy and luscious.
Finish: Long. Raisins, apricots and an extended oaken honey note in the aftertaste – sweet and full but dry.
Tomintoul has the slogan "the gentle dram" and in most of their core-range this gentle quality is almost problematic due to their tendency to bottle at 40%. I'm not of the opinion that all whisky must be bottled at high proof just "because", but in the case of Tomintoul there is an argument to be made in support of this, as their expressions can often seem too laid back for their own good.
However there is absolutely none of that here (and I've also never had any complaints regarding weakness of profile regarding other cask-strength Tomintouls I've tasted). It is a full-bodied, characterful whisky that shows the distillery style in its very best form.
This is spirity and sharp when first poured, and it needs 5 minutes for the immediate alcohol to dissipate before the rich and plummy heart of this whisky is revealed, and it just keeps gaining complexity and depth the longer you let it breathe. Water does not harm the nose in any way but instead brings out honey-cured ham and just a touch of “green” notes – menthol, eucalyptus - but very mild.
The palate also responds well to dilution with the malty tannins morphing into a more ginger-nut biscuit character. The warming quality on the arrival turns just a shade hotter with some Szechuan pepper emerging but the foundational honeys and caramel-nougat notes never fade away. The palate is very good either neat or diluted, and it can stand being watered down to the low 40s. After it has recomposed following dilution the PX sherry wood is much more noticeable as a specific flavour and aroma component.
This was casked into a PX sherry butt in April 2001 and then left to slumber unmolested for 17 years before being bottled in September 2018. That's the way to make whisky. This is almost certainly only available via the secondaries now and if I could find one I'd buy it.
Tasted from a 30ml sampler.
“Excellent” : 88/100 (4.5 stars)
250.0
AUD
per
Bottle
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