pkingmartin
Barrell Craft Spirits Gold Label Seagrass
Canadian — (bottled in) Kentucky, Canada
Reviewed
November 18, 2022 (edited May 9, 2024)
This is Barrell’s third version of Seagrass with the other two being regular Seagrass and a Gray Label 16-year Seagrass. For me, I found the regular Seagrass to be a fruity treat with light earthy rye notes in the background to prevent it from being overly sweet and the 16-year to be the opposite with those earthy rye notes up front with some well-aged oak while those fruity finishes worked in the background to add some fruity sweetness. So, I was intrigued when their 20-year Gold edition came out and wanted to find out what direction Barrell decided to take, but that high price tag was a hindrance in my pursuit to find out until @ctbeck11 was generous enough to provide me with a sample to finally satiate my curiosity.
The nose is bold and rich starting with a mix of dehydrated apricot, caramelized pineapples, raspberry syrup, vintage leather and a light forest rye flavor in the background then the rye takes center stage with freshly baked pumpernickel bread with whipped cinnamon honey butter on top and a light river rock minerality followed by bananas foster, cherry brandy and mandarin oranges that transitions to candied ginger, charred pine cones and polished antique furniture with high ethanol burn.
The taste is a rich oily mouthfeel starting with a moderately sweet and sour fruit forward mix of apricot jam, caramelized pineapples, raspberry sorbet and vintage leather then a slightly bitter and sour rye spice that slowly fades to freshly baked pumpernickel bread with whipped cinnamon honey butter on top, espresso and light river rock minerality followed by a banana split with sour cherries, toasted walnuts and tangerine orange that transitions to candied ginger, pine needles and polished antique furniture with high ethanol burn.
The finish is long with charred pine cones, dark chocolate mocha, banana split, cherries jubilee, dehydrated apricots, walnuts, a moderate rye spice, leather and polished antique furniture.
For this version, Barrell went back to the original with those creamy sweet and sour fruits upfront that is an exceptionally well-crafted and balanced blend with the flavors of the rye, Martinique rum, Madeira and apricot brandy all working in harmony to create a fairly complex and sweet whiskey with the rye and well-aged oak working as a background note while rum, brandy and Madeira bring in bold fruit notes that are dominant but fade enough to allow those earthy forest floor rye flavors to come through as well as the well-aged oak.
This is likely what customers were thinking the Seagrass 16-year would be as the older rye components enhance the normal Seagrass with well-aged oak notes and polishes out some of the youthfulness with those 20-year old ryes while maintaining the sweet DNA of the regular. For me, I still find the 16-year to be my favorite as I enjoy those earthy rye flavors being front and center with light fruitiness from the finishes, but if you’re a fan of a sweeter and fruitier rye profile and want some well-aged oak, than the 20-year would likely not disappoint.
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