DrRHCMadden
Highland Park The Dark 17 Year
Single Malt — Islands, Scotland
Reviewed
January 5, 2023 (edited October 10, 2023)
Apart from one last exclusive Australian release I have arrived at the end of these HP tastings. This afternoon I pour The Dark, counterpart to The Light. As for the Light, Dark has an age statement of 17 years, beautiful packaging, and a seemingly outrageous price of AUD$399.99. The Light was good and showcased some core elements of HP beautifully, but it lacked some character to be on par with the 18 at AUD$250. The Dark according to HPs marketing gurus “celebrates autumn and winter in Orkney – a time to escape from wild weather outside and gather with friends and family, sharing long nights of conversation and laughter around the fire”. It’s 40 degrees celsius today so no fire, and I refuse to share. This is my darkness.
N: Thickly decadent and oozing opulence. This is a syrupy to oily nose that spaced with cherry and fruitcake, cake batter, nuttiness (walnuts, pecans?), cocoa and orange rind, cinnamon and nutmeg spices and of course peat. The peat here is HP, sure, but reimagined. The peat goes to a legitimately deeper and darker place, still with the presence of florals and softness but now somehow damper and ashier with a more ember rich feel, and with a little Chrismtas tree pine to boot (same as in the Eagle 16); as if it really is a cold dark winter outside. Honestly, I forgot that it is a brilliant furnace outside.
I am almost 20 minutes into this nose and I don’t want to leave. I have also stopped trying to think about what is here, it keeps unraveling, dragging me in, and rearranging itself; so freaking good.
P: Full, thick, velvety, and a direct follow on from the nose. Decadence again. Woah. Cherry and raisin, mulled red fruit, spices of cinnamon, nutmeg and clove (I think?), creamy and bitter mocha. There is wonderful textural changes of tannic dryness in places and juicy richness in others. The more you dwell the more there is to find; barrel toast and malted cereal, perfumed wood, lovely hints of pepper, floral-pine brightness, orange or lemon rind. Oh lets not leave out the ever present unifying thread of peat smoke delicate medicinal notes, florals, and beach bonfire.
F: Long. The bonfire becomes slightly ashy, sherry fades and wood tannins become drying and peppery. Hidden under the dry exit is a delicate chocolaty creaminess.
I believe the Light was matured in ex American oak sherry refill casks. The sherry presence was all but missing in the Light. Here in the Dark the barrels were all sherry seasoned first fill European casks, and what a difference that makes. A beautiful depth of colour instantly contrasts the pale straw colour of the Light. The Light really is light in comparison. The depths of richness and indulgent character in Dark were not mucking about. Everything is brilliant. This is whisky that would reach out and drown you in its darkness if it could. Damn, the execution of this cask strength offering are so en point that there is no abrasive roughness to the high ABV (so much so that I forgot to add a drop of water along the way). Seamless in its integration the dram keeps on giving. Every sip seemingly the same, yet different. Couple this excellent whisky making with its captivating and transportive nature; the ability to pull me into a little bothy hunkered down against a bracing Orkney winter when its really an inferno outside; and I am left unable to fault this brilliant dram.
[Pictured here with this drams viking themed rock a eclogite facies metafelsite from Fjørtoft, More Og Romsdal, Norway. This rock is packed with pink garnet, white quartz, and blue kyanite and represents the subduction of very low density granitic crust into the very dense mantle to a depth of about 150 km. It’s also filled with micro diamonds and kind of goes against everything we know about the our planets geodynamics as it shouldn’t be possible to subduct granites to this depth; a remarkable rock for a remarkable dram]
Distiller whisky taste #142
HP Running ranking (mostly for my benefit):
10: 3.75
12: 4
15: 4.25
18: 4.75
25: 4.75
Valknut: 4.25
Valkyrie: 4.25
Dragon Legend: 3.25
Voyage of the Raven: 3.5
Spirit of the Bear: 3.25
Loyalty of the Wolf: 2.75
Wings of the Eagle: 4
The Light: 4.25
The Dark: 5
399.99
AUD
per
Bottle
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@Jose-Massu-Espinel yep, it’s my whisky of the year so far! Haha. Seriously though, this took my by surprise. Been thinking about it all day today.
Two years ago i picked this one as my favorite whisky of the year
@DrRHCMadden 😆 One could only hope.
@pkingmartin perhaps if we all review it at 0.25/5 and write that it’s dishwater we can drive the price down?!
@Scott_E the More I try the more I realise the nose is the magic of the experience in most cases. This though just knocked it out the park for me on all fronts.
A hell of a dram, rock and review!!! I’ve tried this a few times over the years, when I find it at a bar at a reasonable price, and agree that it is an epic treat. I haven’t been able to pull the trigger on a bottle as it’s $325 near me but I’m hopeful to encounter it at an eventual discounted price in the future.
@DrRHCMadden I love when sampling a whisky and just nosing is almost enough and no need to go further. Excellent review. One that never crossed my way.
@DrRHCMadden you just convinced me to hunt down that sample and try it this weekend.
I think, I think I may know where one bottle is near to me for AUD350/USD240. Just before Xmas I bought the bottle I have coming up next instead of this..I fear I may have errored. This is but the second 5 star I have given. I was hovering on 4.75 but the ability to make me forget my skin was melting off sealed it. I wish this was more than the 30 ml I had… superior to the 25, richer and more expressive than the 18. This is a master stroke by Gordon Motion. Hope you enjoy your dram as much as I did!
@DrRHCMadden i’ve not tried this one (have a sample somewhere…but will need to look it up). I was able to afford only one of the two, and I’m glad I choose this to buy years back when it was released. Also, that price is now silky high…I got it for $150USD, now seems to be multiples of it