Richard-ModernDrinking
Johnnie Walker Excelsior
Blended — Scotland
Reviewed
March 3, 2023 (edited December 6, 2023)
This rare 1997 release from Johnnie Walker comprises whiskies distilled 50 years earlier and was the highlight of a JW-themed tasting this week near the Modern Drinking HQ. That makes this blend a 1947 vintage, surely the oldest I’ve tasted. I’ve no idea which distilleries are represented, but undoubtably many of them have ceased production.
The online literature mentions maturation in port-seasoned casks and that influence is clear through the spirit. Dry tannins, dates and plums merge into a deep leathery backbone that harkens to its age. The finish extends for as long as you have the patience to wait between sips, with raisins, 90% dark chocolate and more of those tannins. Despite the length of maturation, there’s only a hint of oak spice, or perhaps it’s a whisp of smoke. The tannins give it the mouthfeel of a well-aged wine or port and while it’s not the most complex of whiskies it ticks all the boxes you want from a blend, in that it doesn’t require too much analysis to enjoy. The small pour I had went a long way, so although a bottle will cost you in excess of $1,000 at auction you’ll get many months of pleasure from this treasure of whisky history.
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