The Bunnahabhain distillery shop is Islay’s candy store, with dozens of different blends and single casks available in a variety of bottle sizes. I somehow managed to restrict myself to just two 3cl samples when I visited in June, one of which was this latest release of the cask strength 12. It’s important to note that this is a different cask recipe to the regular 12, with just a small percentage of bourbon barrels. It announces itself as something special as soon as your pour it, a golden honey syrup that swirls lusciously in the glass. The aromas are beguiling: rich raisins soaking in syrup with a dash of Cointreau and a hint of aromatic wood akin to a cedar plank. An initial burst of pepper in the mouth gives way to jammy flavors and notes of marinated blood oranges. The medium-dry finish riffs on orange marmalade (not the bitter kind) accompanied by a dusting of nutmeg. The mouthfeel is luxurious, with a silkiness that makes it go down easy despite the strength. Put simply, it’s delicious, an indulgent desert with just enough complexity to make it interesting.