islay_emissary
Laphroaig 18 Year
Single Malt — Islay, Scotland
Reviewed
November 16, 2023 (edited August 6, 2024)
- Laphroaig 18 was introduced into their core range in 2009 then discontinued a short time later in 2016. The bottle pictured features a pre-2013 label and was only opened recently after being in storage for over a decade. Distilleries readily admit that phenols in whisky, or smokiness, diminish with time spent in the barrel. This is also true of time spent in an unopened bottle, although never talked about.
For example, new-make spirit with a phenol count of 25 ppm may decrease to 7-8 ppm after 15 years or to 4-6 ppm after 30 years of aging. This is why you will rarely see an Islay whisky with an age statement of more than 40 years. By this time it has usually lost all of its characteristic smokiness.
Distilleries measure and advertise the phenol count in the mash after the barley has been smoked by the dried peat logs. In the case of Laphroaig, that number starts at 50 ppm and drops down to about 25 ppm from the distillation process. Also, Islay peat moss is primarily sphagnum which is rich in the polyphenols: phenol, creosol, guaiacol and a few others to a lesser extent. Phenol gives Islay whisky its smokiness, creosol lends a tar or asphalt characteristic, and guaiacol a medicinal iodine-like quality.
Over time, it is my impression phenol and guaiacol will dissipate and creosol becomes more prominent along with other qualities previously masked. As a result, the whisky can take on a whole new dimension some might find more desirable. I found this to be true with the 18yo pictured. Minimal smoke and lots of everything else typical of Laphroaig. Simply brilliant!
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@cascode - @PBMichiganWolverine is right: you are the resident guru! 🙂 Next up is a Lagavulin Special Release (12yo, 1st edition, bottled in 2002, cask strength at 57.8%) That ‘ill be a good one. Cheers! 🥃🥃
@islay_emissary Nice! I polished off my last bottle of Laphroaig “white tube” 18 years ago and have lamented its absence ever since. I agree with your thoughts about phenol degradation over time, it’s one of the several ways in which whisky definitely “ages” in the bottle (as opposed to “maturing” in the barrel. Phenols also undergo esterification, particularly in the presence of alcohols, which results in more fruity esters. Anyone who has had a Laphroaig of 18 plus years will attest to the diminished smoke and enhanced fruity ester quality. Enjoy that 18 mate, it’s pure gold 👍