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Bunnahabhain Eirigh Na Greine
Single Malt — Islay, Scotland
Reviewed
November 11, 2024 (edited November 14, 2024)
Nose: Sweet red berries, sultanas, raisins. The alcohol is well contained and the nose has a warm and inviting character. With subsequent nosing I got petrichor and distant sea-spray but it’s a more mineralic nose than maritime. Some nutmeg and cloves and a hint of good (but not old) oak. The nose continued to improve as I let this sit with sandalwood emerging. Adding water makes the nose relax and soften but it loses the coastal quality.
Palate: Sweet arrival with toffee and honey. Berries, sweet spices and herbs in the development. Again there is that mineralic quality on the palate with pebble beaches brought to mind but once more it’s not quite maritime. There is an almost-bitter quality like marmalade, some chocolate and young, soft tannins. The texture is slightly syrupy.
Finish: Medium/Long. Savory/sweet (hmm, is that just the definition of umami?) berries and spices.
This was a very agreeable, youngish NAS Bunnahabhain that delivered more than I initially expected. The nose in particular developed very well with some pleasantly mature and sweet wood notes balanced by firm mineralic/maritime aromas. The palate was pleasant from the first taste but over time it acquired some proper depth and complexity. There is a faint smoky quality but it’s not noticed on the nose, only on the palate and in the finish, and then only after several tastes.
Water works very well with this whisky, the nose becoming like an old favourite sweater, comforting and restful. The palate becomes very soft and the berry notes increase along with some vanilla and caramel, and the palate eventually segues seamlessly into the aftertaste. There is a hint of sourness in the final flavours but it does not unhinge the profile.
I think they used good casks for this young NAS and as a result it punches above its weight. I guess it is debatable whether equally good ex-sherry hogsheads would have produced a better result than the red wine casks, and it all comes down to whether you enjoy red-wine cask finishing at all. Come to think of it, this distillate in ex-sherry casks would be Stiùireadair, I betcha.
Tasted from a 30ml sample.
“Good” : 83/100 (3.5 stars)
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