Beautiful, heavy legs in the glass after a twirl, and just the start of lace when left alone for 10 minutes. It does the job of looking like something I'll want to drink. Nose is rich and inviting, but I have to work for it. After a lot of time in the glass and a lot of trips to the nose, the generalized "I like this, it smells yummy" finally resolves into identifiable parts. First there's dark cocoa powder and Bing cherries, then a transition to a slightly dirty oolong tea and moss covered sea rocks. Worth the effort, and I'm glad I didn't get impatient and move too quickly to the taste. And about that taste - the nose intimates you'll need to take your time with this and the palate confirms the directive. First taste is rich, creamy and slightly oily, but not mouth-coating. Dark treacle, roasted walnuts, toasted milk bread with a light dusting of demerara sugar. Salt shows up mid-palate, shifting away from sweet and combining with the peat smoke to do a play on a light pancetta. Close is clean and semi-brief, flashing those cherries from earlier, a dash of dark cocoa and letting the salt linger until the end. You won't mistake this for an old Mortlach or Ledaig, but the savory is a nice twist, and is what sets this apart from a lot of otherwise good, unobjectionable, but mostly unmemorable, older-aged whisky at premium prices. I will note that my first taste of this was in the Bowmore bar. Gazing out that giant window overlooking the bay may have had an outsized impact on how I felt about the whisky I held in my hand. But I'm sure that's marketing as well, and in this case, it worked. I won't be buying another bottle because the cost to return just isn't there for me. But I'll always have my eye out for a bottle behind the bar.