ScotchingHard
Bruichladdich Black Art 1990 04.1 Edition 23 Year
Single Malt — Islay, Scotland
Reviewed
August 8, 2017 (edited December 15, 2021)
$37.50 CAN (roughly $30 USD) for 1 oz. at The Caledonian in Toronto ~2016. This was a steal, and last I checked they are now out, as are all bottles in my area. The inertia for me to buy a bottle was that the nearest store that I knew of that had this in stock was 45 minutes away. If it was closer, the $430 price tag would be no obstacle. I had a second ounce, and even bought a pour for a good friend, who was relatively new to whisky. He summarized the experience better than I could: “Wow. Fruity. Smooth. Salty. Wow. I didn’t know whisky could be so smooth.” I encouraged him to let the full finish fade before taking the next sip. After 10 minutes, he got tired of waiting and went outside for a smoke.
NOSE: Bruichladdich’s whole tagline is that they believe in “terroir”, believe in the people, believe in Islay. Blah blah blah. Jim McEwen believes in France with this bottle. “La Marseillaise” plays in my head immediately when I smell the glass. You get hit with bordeux, cognac, and vermouth. Intense exotic fruitiness comes after, and now the music changes to merengue. Papaya, guava jam, mangoes. Just when you think you’ve gone as far away from Islay as metaphysically possible, the brine brings you back. What all those fancy sweet French cognacs are missing, apparently, is a wee bit of salt.
PALATE: Orgasmic. The eyes roll into the back of the head. The toes do curl. You can’t even describe the arrival or the first sip, and you have to taste again. The fruitiness is incredible and powerfully delivered by a thick, viscous, briny liquid. Strawberry jam, raisins, sultanas. This transitions into figs and dates. Then you get some nuttiness with almonds and cashews. Then it becomes sweet again. What a rollercoaster!
FINISH: Like a good aged whisky, swallowing is the beginning of the experience. The nose is re-experienced in the aftersmell as vapors rise from the depths of the gullet back into the nose. It’s cognac and sherry, with a decent warmth of alcohol. I dare not add water to temper this beast. Ever so slowly, there is a transition to more familiar territory; after several minutes, the taste dries and saltiness dominates. Perhaps there is a hint, or just a memory, of ash; maybe from peaty gamma radiation from whatever nuclear malting processes Bruichladdich uses to produce Octomore.
VERDICT: This is not for a single malt purist, and is the perfect discourse for those just looking for something that tastes amazing, and those looking for something that exemplifies single malt whisky. This is as French as it is Scottish. I don’t mind at all. Jim McEwen has created the end-all be-all of wine-finished whiskies. If you see a bottle, and you don’t hate wine finishes, buy it. I hope the 5.1 is as good. MARK: 96/100.
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Balvenie TUNs were amazing---especially their 1401 series. I must've passed this black bottle a million times, and always assumed it's a marketing gimmick. I'll need to pick it up next time I see it.
@lee. For official bottlings, it's between this and balvenie TUN for best nonpeated ive ever had. I'm kicking myself for not driving 45min and spending $400+. 200 something is a no brainer.
Yeah, I'm down. I've had a bottle of 6.3. Trying to hunt a 7.3. But I might just skip it now.
309ppm seems insane. I would think after a point, it wouldn't matter. Might over take any other flavor---but I'm curious to try though
Wow, I have passed on this bottle numerous times- I believe I saw it back in the spring for $230-240, but when I investigated it and learned it was unpeated I kind of lost interest. Now I'm kicking myself. Great review. It's back on my list.
Bruichladdich - Octomore just released their 8.0 series. They have 4 offerings and the 8.3 is peated at 309.1ppm...wowza!
It turns out that MA state law only allows them to ship within the state. I will send store details via email to both of you in the event you have family or friend in the area willing to help in the matter. Sorry for the bad lead.
Phenomenal review. I saw this once at duty free and passed due to the price, now I'm kicking myself. Rick, if there are two bottles my email is [email protected] Fingers crossed
[email protected]. I would have to involve a D.C. Friend. You can't ship alcohol to Maryland. But yes! I am interested.
No. This is a complete departure from octomore. Octomore is Jim McEwen trying to give you the ultimate Islay experience - especially the Islay barley expressions (6.3 and 7.3). Black Art is Jim McEwen trying to crossbreed whisky with French oak and French grapes. This is sweet and not peated.
wonder how this compares to their Octomore...is it the same, but older?
I know a retailer that has a bottle of Blark Art 4 that they will discount to $200. Leave an email if interested.