ScotchingHard
Linkwood 21 Year Distillery Labels (Gordon & MacPhail)
Single Malt — Speyside, Scotland
Reviewed
August 9, 2017 (edited October 21, 2024)
This review is for the 25 year old Gordon & MacPhail, which is pretty available in well-stocked whisky bars, and is very reasonably priced, like Linkwood IBs tend to be. I bought two ounces at The Caledonian in Toronto last week for $43 CAN (roughly $34 USD). Linkwood is very versatile for long aging because the distillery character is bland and easy to build on. Linkwood is like Baby from “Dirty Dancing.” She enters casks with naivete and trepidation, yearning for a bold, assertive cask to teach her some spicy moves. The best partner is probably small ex-bourbon casks, preferably rejuvenated. The 25 G&M uses sherry refill, and we aren’t given more information. Probably, this was aged in tired sherry butts, because even after 25 years, something is to be desired, and I only rarely taste anything 25 years or older.
NOSE: Take your time for these old whiskies. Initially, there are stale and muddled vanilla/sherry notes. Wait a good 10-15 minutes for this dram to open up. Sweet fruity notes separate from earthy, damp forest undergrowth. Sultanas and wilting roses. Something arcane in the background. Dusty, herbal traditional Chinese medicine like. Nothing blowing the socks off, but contemplative. Hmmm…
PALATE: Sweet arrival with an impressive body for 43% ABV. Still, this would have been nicer with more alcohol. Don’t add water. Honey, vanilla, cream. I tend to get an Earl Grey background with all Linkwoods. Thus, London fog (flavors assemble)! The woody flavors towards the end do nothing for me. Like I said, tired sherry butts probably.
FINISH: Medium in length. Dry and malty. The sweetness dropped off quickly, and you are left chewing on old water-damaged books. The pages are brown, with a little bit of moss. Could have used some peat. Could have used some sherry.
VERDICT: A bottle, if you find one on sale, should be ~$150. At that price point, it’s hard to pass for a 25 year old. Finding the London fog flavor was a great experience and I could keep going back to that at any time of the day. Drink a 25 year old whisky for brunch like a champ! MARK: 87/100.
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Independent bottlings are the Wild West. There's too many unknowns with how a cask will interact with the distillate that goes beyond just the stated age. Having a resource like whiskybase.com is helpful, but even then there are wild bottle-to-bottle variations most of the time. The 15 and 25 year old G&M can be found as "licensed bottles", which adds some security because they are for intents "official," and have larger batches and more quality control.
It wasn't that bad Pranay. I got similar notes to this one. Overall a lot left to be desired. Mild everything but not unpleasant.
It's surprising how 4 yrs can make a difference. I had the 21 yr old, which I didn't like at all.