Stonkingly good. Like sucking on a piece of overcooked brisket. Okay, that may not sound gastronomically appealing but in a whisky it translates into a drink that’s deliciously meaty and smoky and dry. Sandwiched either side of these lip-smacking flavors are a typical Ardbeg nose of smoke and lemon Ricola cough drops and an aftertaste of bitter chocolate, barbecue sauce and tannins. There’s plenty of time to analyze that finish because it hangs around long enough to set up home in your mouth, unpacking its cigars and 90% cocoa Lindt bars and refusing to get off your couch. As a blend it’s outstanding. As a bastard cousin of purebred Ardbegs, it more than holds its own, easily outshining An Oa and even last year’s 21. If only those wayward relatives around your Thanksgiving table could so effortlessly assemble themselves into a whole that’s greater than their parts. Thanks again Pranay.