Generously_Paul
Mortlach 15 Year Distillery Labels (Gordon & MacPhail)
Single Malt — Speyside, Scotland
Reviewed
November 30, 2017 (edited October 21, 2024)
DISCLAIMER: This review is for the 11 year old Mortlach from Classic Cask, not the 15 year G&M.
Stop number 51 on the SDT is Mortlach. This Speyside distillery is owned by Diageo and is primarily used as a blending component in Johnnie Walker, however there are a few official single malt releases. This bottle came from the independent bottlers at Classic Cask. A single, first fill hogshead (not sure if its ex bourbon or sherry) was used and only 384 bottles were released. Distilled in 2002, bottled in 2014, making it 11+ years old. 46% ABV, non chill filtered and natural color of pale straw which would point to the cask being ex bourbon.
The nose is bright and citrusy. Lemon and a little lime. Buttercream, vanilla, very light oak. Some sharp alcohol burn early on. Light bourbon notes, butterscotch and caramel. Furniture polish and a bit of a metallic sensation. Some almond paste and after a while a nice thin layer of smoke arrives, just enough to let you know it’s there. Sourdough bread, malty. More fruits show up in the form of plums, some brine and olive oil as well. A very homogenized nose. Nothing really stands out except the citrus and everything else I had to fight for.
A sweet arrival on the palate with a touch of spice. Lemony citrus and a general fruitiness, but like the nose, nothing stands out. Light brine and vanilla. Weak raisins and weak smoke. Not complex at all, very simple. Nothing wrong with it, just nothing special.
Medium bodied mouthfeel that starts dry, then becomes mouthwatering...then dry...then mouthwatering.
A medium length finish with citrus, cream and raisins. Dry.
Pretty much the definition of mediocre. Nothing at all stands out except the citrus. Difficult to pull distinct notes from it. Unfortunately this is another subpar offering from an independent bottler. At $88 it’s not worth the price of admission. Thanks to @Telex for the sample. 3 stars.
Cheers
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I do have a bottle of the G&M 15 year waiting in the wings for a tasting, so you've whetted my appetite. @LeeEvolved Oh, I dunno. There is a bit of that, but I've had a as many really tasty and interesting independent bottlings over the years as paint-by-numbers ones. eg Signatory Glen Elgin 21 is not much different to the standard 12 year, maybe even inferior, but Signatory Clynelish 19 year old is delectable. I think we'd be worse off overall without the independents. At least they make life interesting :-)
Can’t say I disagree with ya there. That’s why I blend it with the Glenkinchie 12. ;)
By and large I agree with you Lee. But then you get gems like that Bladnoch from Pranay that make you go “welllll, I’ll give another one a try”
Great review, Paul. I’m already over these independent bottlings. Way overpriced with little to no quality control or blending skills to make something of substance. It’s just “we threw this one in the warehouse way back in 2001, so that makes it a $140 bottle...” 🙄