ScotchingHard
WhistlePig The Boss Hog IV: The Black Prince
Rye — Indiana (bottled in Vermont), USA
Reviewed
December 15, 2017 (edited February 15, 2021)
PRICE: $400-800. The suggested retail is $500. Some stores do have it on shelf for less, some still try to mark up an already high price.
INFO: Indiana rye whiskey distilled at MGP, barrel aged for 14 years, and finished in French casks that once contained Armagnac. This is bottled barrel-strength at 59.6% ABV. This won best whisk(e)y in the world at the 2017 San Francisco World Spirits Competition.
NOSE: 96/100. Bottomless complexity. Definitely fruit forward, but the rye spices are not quiet either. I’ve tried the 3rd Boss Hog, The Independent, which was aged in ex-Macallan casks, and the rye was really shut out by the scotch. Since then, WhistlePig has changed the source to MGP rye, which is definitely standing up firmer than Alberta rye. There’s plums, toffee, molasses on top; dark, dark, sweet, rich stuff. Underneath, white grapes and Bartlett pears; vibrant and juicy stuff. Deeper still, are the herbs: dill and mint.
PALATE: 98/100. Huge breathtaking explosion of fruit on the arrival that on my first try literally made my eyes bulge. I am instantly reminded of one of my white whales I finally got to try this year: Bruichladdich Black Art 4. But this is even better. Full disclosure: I don’t like strong American ryes yet. I’m trying to develop the appreciation, like someone new to peat might take a while to appreciate Laphroaig 10. Rye is a mere passenger in this bottle, which may upset traditionalists, but I am more than fine with that. In fact, somehow by combining aged rye with Armagnac, there are flavors from almost every other spirit here. There’s a fruity Speyside scotch in here, dark sugars and molasses of rum, roasted cactus of mezcal, caramel and cinnamon of bourbon, and the green herbaciousness of rye. There’s a Christmas baking element to it; and there’s a Christmas tree, pinecones and all, element to it. The intensity is turned up to a thousand, but you don’t get any burn, and this does not need any water to enjoy.
FINISH: 97/100. Long, satisfying finish, that is wood-dominant, but has great complexity. I am reminded of roasting marshmellows impaled on a Maplewood twig on an open campfire. Crème brulee. Flowery essential oils. Apricots. And the gentlest amount of peppers and pine needles.
OVERALL: This is my whisky of the year. Black Prince translated to the fine dining world would be like Eleven Madison Park. If you like something traditional, like grandma’s lasagna, you’re not going to get it there. But you’ll get something new, bold, and yet honest enough to win over a curmudgeon like me. It’s aged 14 years and costs $500. Why? Because Armagnac casks are expensive and hard to find. Plus it tastes great, is an experience you cannot find in any other bottle, and is presented elegantly. Conveniently, it also prices the bourbon flippers out of the picture, and you actually find this on a shelf.
MARK: 97/100.
VALUE FOR MONEY: I paid $480 for my bottle, and was previously paying $55 per ounce at a bar. Whether or not you think it’s worth it paying that much to have a whiskey better than any other one you’ve had all year is a matter of how much you make, and how much of it you are willing to spend on a dram, isn’t it?
MY RUNNERS UP (i.e. what Black Prince beat): to qualify, this had to be a whisk(e)y that I tried for the first time in 2017 (not necessarily released in 2017).
1) Yamazaki 18 year
2) Longrow Red 12 year Pinot Noir finish
3) Bruichladdich Black Art 4.1
4) Octomore 7.3 Islay Barley
5) Cadenhead 1984/2013 Caol Ila 29 year
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Great review and I too put the Black Prince head to head with Yama18!
@Rick_M totally agree...I’m not ready to spend that kind of cash on a rye, despite the finishing. I’m just as happy with a $60-80 High West rye
@PBMichiganWolverine - I bought the 15yo Estate Oak from a retailer that brought in a case of the Black Price (6) and still hadn’t sold any as of a month ago. I’ll have to check back. I’m over my love affair with rye. When I’m in the mood, $30 Bulleit does the trick as well as the $170 Whistlepig 15yo, being sourced from the same two distilleries. I’m just not that curious to see what $400 buys me.
@Rick_M. Just saw this on the shelf locally here in NJ for $419. Still pricey, but interesting that they’ve bought it down by about 25%
@PBMichiganWolverine: I keep checking this out in the liquor safe and saying the same thing. I’ve walked away about a half dozen times, but I’m weakening. Please pray for me. :)
I’ve been spying this for a while. You’re not making it easy on me, because I’m already way over my whiskey budget for the year. :) Great review!
That price tag makes me hesitate. Seems silly expensive
@Dreaming-of-Islay I actually regretted all other whistlepigs that I tried for what I paid except this one. I ended up exploring their cheaper expressions after this one blew me away, but was disappointed. Most of them because I got too much rye, which I don’t enjoy.
The list of what you’ve tried just this year is pretty legendary. I’m not a big fan of Whistlepig or ryes in general but may need to search this out.