LeeEvolved
Springbank 12 Year Burgundy Wood
Single Malt — Campbeltown, Scotland
Reviewed
February 10, 2018 (edited April 28, 2020)
I was sent a sample of this insane, Lowland whisky from my friend Jason. This was a limited release back in 2016 that consisted of Springbank 12 year old that was aged for its entire term in Spanish, burgundy wine casks. I had initially decided I would compare this one to the Tullibardine 228- which was also finished in burgundy wine barrels. But, the two are so far apart in flavor and complexity I felt it wasn’t a fair comparo.
This Springbank is a near cask strength bottle coming in at a robust, brandy-like 53.5% ABV. It’s a crystal clear, pink rose colored dram that makes long, skinny legs in the Glencairn.
The nose has to be one of the funkiest smelling malts I’ve ever experienced. The hay and barnyard funkiness is almost all red wine/balsamic vinegar. I seem to recall a similar smell from a bottle of saba that a chef friend of mine once gave me. He said Saba is basically grape must (the skins, stems and seeds of fresh pressed grapes) that has been reduced to a sweet syrup and used in a lot of Italian sauces as the sweetening agent. It’s very weird and distinct. There’s a little bit of oak and heat from the high ABV, but it’s mostly funk.
The palate is also super fruity: strawberries, grapes and melon with a big time kick from the ABV. The oak and some florals are there, but you really have to work this around the tongue and withstand the heat to even detect the slightest hints. That’s the Springbank character, for sure, but it’s really fighting the burgundy funk just to be heard towards the end.
The finish just resonates everything from the nose: funky, funky with wet hay and grapes that just lingers on well past the finish. Even past the palate cleanser, water, vanilla wafer, saltine...you get the idea. This thing lasts longer than even some of the smokiest Islay whiskies over ever tasted. That’s astonishing.
Overall, well....I don’t really know how to rate this thing. It’s an amazing testament to wine cask whisky. It’s also a bold experiment by Springbank- they literally sacrificed their brand flavor profile here. If I had tasted this blind there’s no way in hell I would’ve guessed it was theirs. The only problem I see here is that this is so close to being a brandy, IMO, that I almost lost sight of the fact it’s a scotch. That’s where I think your average whisky drinker will get lost. I know, I know- I could’ve added some water and brought this down but I’m one of THOSE snobs that thinks the whisky should be drank the way the distillery intended it- as bottled. If I had a full bottle I may have done that later on to try to open it up, but I wanted this one “as is” and that may have been too much.
Thanks to @Telex for this awesome pour. It’s flavor is intense, I just think it misses the mark a little as a whisky (and even as a Springbank). It’s 4.5 stars on its own, but I gotta downgrade it a bit for being too, too much (if that makes sense). 4-4.25 stars.
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Informative review as per usual @LeeEvolved - is this the only Springbank you’ve reviewed? I went searching for your take on Springbank 10 or 15yr & didn’t locate. Hopefully in your review queue :)
I have several top distilleries. This is at least no. 5 (I'm including hazelburn)
@Generously_Paul - man, I hate it when I get to scribbling notes or typing so fast that I miss simple facts. I can’t believe I missed that even when I was proof-reading my post. Good catch.
Personally I love Springbank. All it’s offerings are either really good to amazing. That 24 year old sherry cask independent I just had was borderline weird, but in a good way.
Springbank is from Campbeltown. Hate to be “that guy” all the time, but I am lol.