LeeEvolved
Benromach Peat Smoke 2006
Single Malt — Speyside, Scotland
Reviewed
February 28, 2018 (edited March 1, 2018)
If I could label this review I believe I would call it “A Tale of Two Seasons”. I was originally gifted an entire bottle of this malt for my birthday back in 2016, from my buddy Ryan. We both drank through this bottle over the course of a few weeks- I enjoyed the peatiness, he enjoyed the bourbon-esque heat. So, it went down quicklynand with some enthusiasm. I was in my scotch hobby’s infancy and left a cheesy, non-descript review over on Barreled. Take a look:
Barreled 4/2016:
I get a kick out of highland distillers trying their hand at peat smoked single malts, especially when they are done pretty well. This one is no exception- it's appearance is light, like most highland styles and it feels light on the palate, but it packs a nice, velvety smoke all the way through the finish. Reminds me of the Port Charlotte Heavy Peat. Very smooth, not too dry and really enjoyable. I imagine this would pair very well with smoked meats like pork BBQ or beef brisket. 4 stars.
Man, what insight I had. Well, thanks to my Long Island connection, @Scott_E- I get to try this one again. Let’s see how well this malt held up/how well my palate has improved, shall we?
This Speyside malt from Benromach was aged in first fill bourbon barrels and bottled at a robust 46% ABV. It’s peat level is measured at 62ppm and it’s a beautiful light gold in the Glencairn. It’s oily in appearance and doesn’t create many legs when you spin it a bit.
The nose starts with a strong, but youthful smoke that immediately yields to a battle between oak barrel and citrus peel. The sweetness is well hidden but after a little time I get some gala and green apples. The smell is a plus, even though it’s tedious to work through.
The palate is very harsh and abrasive. Very abrasive. The higher ABV may be the culprit, but I suspect age is also a problem- it’s just too young. I believe it’s approximately 8 year old stock. There’s plenty of peat smoke on the tongue- you just have to sit there and let the whisky sizzle to experience it. No thanks.
The finish is desert-like: hot and very dry. I felt like I was gasping for breath. Thankfully it dies a relatively quick death. It’s not enjoyable in the least.
Overall, I’m not so sure I knew what the hell I was talking about a couple of years ago because this thing is a chore to drink. I love smoke and I love cask strength whisky, but I don’t love how these two tried to bring those things together. Sorry Scott, but this one doesn’t make the grade for me. 2.5stars, at best. Let’s move on...
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@LeeEvolved no worries. The real point of tasting is to see what is worth and what is not. I wish they all could be worthy.
I think sticking to their core competencies is a solid bet. So, if you want peat and smoke: Young to mid-teen Islay. Elegance and rich flavors: well aged Highlander. Honey and floral: Well aged Soeysider. Oceanic brine and salty sweet: Mid teen Islander. Earthy flavors: Cambeltown.
Good to Know. I was Very curious for this one. Had it in my cart together with a Kilchoman 100% Islay the other day, but I switched them for a bottle of Ledaig 18 at the last moment.
I guess when it comes to mainland peat, stick to what you know is good: BenRiach, Ardmore Glenglassaugh. Probably forgetting a few but you get the idea.
Yeah, I think the fact that a LOT of the non-Islay peated whiskies I’ve tried have been soooo bad that this being better than those has affected my score. The Tomintoul, Ancnoc, Glenlivet etc were such let downs that I think this glimmer of hope changed my overall outlook a bit. Nice review!