Nose dominated by smoky, briny peat, with a whiff of sweetness which sometimes I perceive as malt sugar, sometimes as orchard fruit, sometimes as honey. Palate is surprisingly sweet upfront, bringing toffee, malt and maybe fruit (apples? pears?) to mind, with a light-bodied mouthfeel. Finish is all peat, salt and pepper. Harsher in the first few sips, gets progressively smoother as your palate acclimates to it. A classic that punches well above its age (and price) bracket in terms of complexity, balance and “wow factor”.