Richard-ModernDrinking
Caol Ila 10 connoisseur's choice (Gordon & macphail)
Single Malt — Islay , Scotland
Reviewed
June 16, 2018 (edited July 6, 2018)
I came across this at my local bottle store while looking for something uncommon and inexpensive and couldn’t have been more delighted: at less than $60 for a named Islay IB this looked a steal. It’s bottled at a higher ABV that the official 12-year-old — my sweet spot of 46% versus the distillery’s 43% — and drawn from first-fill bourbon barrels. My recollection of the 12 is that it’s a three-star whisky — I’m happy to drink it but wouldn’t buy a bottle — so the bar for an independent bottling to outperform is relatively low in my books. And outperform it does, though not as much on the second tasting as it did on the first.
My initial impression of the nose on first pour was a musty, seductive mix of mulch and dried figs. But the dominant note was much different on a subsequent night, when I was struck most by the aromas of green apples. More consistently, it’s light and creamy on first sip, with pears emerging mid-palette followed by a bite of freshly sanded wood. The long finish recalled fizzy cola bottles (see Proust’s Reference Book of Olde British Sweets) on the first tasting, though the woody note was more dominant on the return visit. I’d have rated this four stars on the strength of the initial tasting, but docked it a half mark for
the slightly sour bite of the finish in the repeat tasting. My guess is that a combination of a slightly overactive first-fill barrel and a hint of youthfulness on the spirit have thrown the finish a little off balance, but overall it’s a fine whisky for the price and a good combination of fruit and peat for a summer Islay. It's a buy at $60, so rounding up the rating to four stars.
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