You don’t have to be familiar with the Scottish Malt Whisky Society’s numbering system to identify this as an Ardbeg. This nine-year-old cask bottled in 2017 is true to the distillery’s DNA and in many ways plays liked Uigeadail on steroids, with a higher ABV and an age statement. The nose is sweet mesquite barbecue smoke, with a hint of pine, burnt matches and nutmeg — they could they have called this Cooking Cattle in a Forest Fire. I found it too overpowering to drink neat at its 60.2% ABV but fortunately it’s not too fussy about how much water you add: my sample went down swimmingly diluted to around 50%. Flavors of dark chocolate, dried brisket and kippers combine into a rich and slightly sweet treat. The finish is chocolate and licorice. One to sip and savor. I’d rate this 4.5/5 and fair value at its original price, but I wouldn’t pay silly money on the secondary market.