cascode
Lagavulin 12 year (2014 Special Release)
Single Malt — Islay, Scotland
Reviewed
June 26, 2018 (edited August 28, 2023)
Nose: Pungent and very briny smoke. A sharp hit of citrus zest, mainly lemon, with a bracing oily background. There's a sharp medicinal note but it's not iodine (it's more "clinical" than the seashore) but neither is it Laphroaig-style hospital antiseptic. With water the nose softens considerably and develops some soft floral fruitiness.
Palate: Intensely dry and sweet at the same time - there's an initial alcohol sting, but no burn, and it disappears with repeated sips. It's the pleasant zap of an intense cask-strength spirit that was run slowly through the still. Smooth, but with a zest that leaves the lips slightly quivering like after eating mild chilli. Lots of preserved lemons, bitter melon, grapefruit and seawater on a charcoal base. The palate is transformed with water, to become mellow, rounded and sweet. The intensity is dialed down but no more spice appears - instead the palate fills out and becomes restful and satisfying.
Finish: Medium-long, and dry. Somewhat herbal. Water again fills out the experience and changes the finale into a mildly sweet citrus event.
I'd been keeping this bottle for a while and finally opened it at the end of last year, along with the 8 year old, for a tasting of smokey whiskies with some friends. It almost renews my faith in Lagavulin. If you watered it down to 40%, added a robust lapsang souchong tea smokiness to the developed palate and gave it some time in a sherry cask then this would be like the Lagavulin 16 year old I remember from the 1990s.
Nose and taste it neat to start with, but then water it generously (a full teaspoon to a dram) and let it sit for 15 minutes. As it develops it gains complexity but you need to give time for the released sweet oils to integrate with the forceful citrus notes. The smoke gains body and intensity, and becomes very pleasing.
"Excellent" : 88/100 (4.5 stars)
170.0
AUD
per
Bottle
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