Nose: Christmas cake, dried fruits and peel, vanilla and citrus (grapefruit and blood orange). There's a spicy character with lots of aromatic wood, both aged staves and fresh planks. Faint sandalwood and a touch of grassy mint. It's reminiscent of a bourbon nose. Palate: A firm, well textured arrival that develops lots of spice and bittersweet citrus. Vanilla and strong oak notes with dark chocolate and black coffee. It's not a soft palate, if anything it veers towards astringency but then calms down at the last minute. It's both demanding and rewarding - if you wanted to be poetic you could call it "resolute" - it has grip and authority, but no trace of ethanol prickle. Finish: Long. Sweet, oaky, gingery spice, vanilla, citrus - it's a lingering finish that leaves a full and complex aftertaste. A very satisfying dram - one of those big old-fashioned east coast highland malts that you have to take on its own terms. Newcomers to single malts might find it a little daunting as it is strongly cask-driven. Maturation was in a combination of bourbon barrels and Spanish oak sherry butts, and you can easily taste the presence of both. Not that it's over-oaked, but neither is it a soft and friendly malt. The 2nd edition 1999 was, however, more accessible and immediately impressive. Adding water initially kills the nose - let it rest and develop for at least 15 minutes (wait until the mist arises - it will start to appear almost immediately, but with time just a dash of water produces a lovely cloudiness). You will be rewarded with a whole new range of experiences. Honey and nougat come out on the nose, which broadens into an almost-but-not-quite floral profile (hints of honeysuckle, roses and violets). The palate likewise is softened but in no way diminished - water releases more spices but also dilutes them whilst taming the oakiness. It actually brings everything into greater balance. I can recommend a dash of water for this whisky as it makes it quite delicious and more approachable, but yes it does lessen the presence. You might sense a slight bitterness right at the end after dilution, but persevere - it will go away and/or you will accommodate it. It's not metallic - more like very bitter dark chocolate and over-brewed black tea. "Very Good" : 85/100 (4 stars)