Laphroaig tasting evening, Sydney, 26 September 18. Whiskey #4. Nose: The smell of a bowl of fruit salad, enjoyed in a fragrant garden by the sea, with the faintest wisp of smoke occasionally wafted by a salt breeze from a fire on the beach. Beautifully aromatic, enveloping but delicate - sensual but almost diaphanously floral. At times the fruity aroma rises in intensity to be like the smell of a bag of boiled fruit sweets, but only for an instant before being dispelled by the gentle aromatic smoke. Palate: A sweet, subtle and refined arrival of slightly oily tropical fruit juice (orange, mandarin, pineapple, melon, guava and banana). The waft of smoke from the nose gains in intensity and unfolds into a complex succession of smoky flavours as it develops - peat smoke, cigar ash, wood-fire cinders and ever so slightly over-toasted raisin bread. Concomitant warm and savoury spicy flavours (notably cardamom and cumin) emerge carrying notes of Greek coffee and old, well-tamed oak tannins. Finish: Medium/long. The sweetness of the arrival very gradually turns to a dry leathery tobacco with a touch of oak. Sublime. Simply sublime. I love old peated whisky, particularly Laphroaig, and I take the opportunity to attend any tasting where such an expression will be featured. The character is so different from younger Laphroaig bottlings (which are enjoyable in their own way, of course). If you're looking for a smoky blast then stay with Laphroaig of 15 years or less, or any of the NAS expressions, as with age this distillate becomes something quite different (as is the case with all smoky whiskies). From 15 years onwards, it starts to change character significantly so by the time you arrive at this 27 year old the signature smoke has become a subtle background that permeates the other facets of the whisky, leaving the fruity and gentle spicy notes to take centre stage. Give this time to breathe after pouring. Don't even think of tasting it before it's had at least 20 minutes in the glass - you will only be cheating yourself of a wonderful experience and wasting the whisky. Hurrying this malt is a mortal sin. Don't add any water either - enjoy this neat in all its glory. "Outstanding" : 91/100 (5 stars)