cascode
Del Maguey Santo Domingo Albarradas Mezcal (Tobala & Espadin)
Mezcal Reposado — Oaxaca, Mexico
Reviewed
October 19, 2018 (edited August 7, 2022)
* My bottle: From Lot no. SDAT-142
Nose: Bay leaf, sandalwood, asparagus and rose petals are the first aromas. Wow, what a start. Deeper nosing detects brine, red clay, licorice, butterscotch, fruit juice, beeswax candles, leather, peppermint and wintergreen. It's a full and round nose and adding water brings out orange blossoms, violets and other floral tones.
Palate: Salt-sweet on the arrival with a melange of tropical fruity notes too intertwined to dissect. As the spirit develops an astringent, spicy and very mouth-drying, almost tannic smokiness arises that coats the palate. The texture is heavy and rich and you do not even notice that this is 49% abv.
Finish: Long. Fruitiness and wood-smoke, sweet flavours but a very dry character. Everything from the nose and palate comes together and then saunters casually into the aftertaste. A subtle smokiness stays in the mouth for ages afterwards.
Exceptional, beautifully balanced and very satisfying. The salty asparagus note from espadin is tamed by the luscious fruity tobala component, and the tobala is in turn lifted by the brisk and direct espadin.
Overt saltiness is found mainly on the nose, but it's a very briny and maritime sort of salt, not earthy rock salt, and there's something almost-but-not-quite iodine about it.
Adding a few drops of water softens the palate without spoiling anything and releases a wonderful sweetness that perfectly balances the underlying dry character. Excellent both neat and watered.
A wonderful, no-holds-barred mezcal that's right up there with the best Del Magueys.
"Very Good" : 86/100 (4 stars)
240.0
AUD
per
Bottle
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@PBMichiganWolverine Sustainability is an issue, but I believe it is being addressed (licensing of approved harvest areas and harvesters, quotas, etc.). I think there has also been some experiments with farming some of the wild varieties, but apparently there are some that just won't domesticate. I seem to remember there's some sort of monoculturing caution as well because of the way agave propagates.
@cascode so, what I didn’t know was that some of these wild agaves (non-espadin varietals) need 10-15 years before it can be harvested for mezcal. That explains the premium pricing on these. Also raises sustainability concerns.
@dubz480 Thanks for the kind comments - I'll keep reviewing as long as the liver holds out :-) @PBMichiganWolverine Wow, you found a bottle! Well done! I thought it was unobtainable now! I picked mine up a couple of years ago literally by accident when it was sent as part of an online order in place of the standard S.D. Albarradas I'd ordered. Christmas came early that year and there was much rejoicing.
Your tasting notes are always so detailed and descriptive! Always appreciate your reviews! Keep up the great work!
@cascode great review. I’ve tried a few Del Magueys—-can’t ever go wrong with them. This one sounds stellar. Based on your review, just got this one.